Birdwatching in Way Kambas National Park, Lampung Province, Sumatra

Along the Look Trail

Storm’s Stork is less wary than the duck, but more difficult to find. You may strike lucky at any of the above-mentioned sites. This swampy lake is only accessible (with a guide) in October when the water is at its lowest. Ironically, a 10-min walk from the guest-house, is where most bird-watchers finally see this Little-known stork, whose nest was first described for science as recently as 1987.

The 2-km, circular Look Trail enters the forest on the right, 150 m back along the track out of Way Kanan, and exits directly behind the guest-house. It passes through an area of stunted, secondary forest. The open undergrowth makes it a great place to get good views of galliformes, which are usually such difficult birds to see well. It is a real delight to watch a male Crested Fireback quietly scraping amongst the leaf litter, its blue eye-wattles, navy-blue, slightly iridescent body plumage and white outer tail feathers contrasting subtly with the browns and greens of the forest.

Birdwatching in Way Kambas National Park, Lampung, Sumatra Island

Searching for White-winged Duck

With a world population of only about individuals spread across India, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and Sumatra, White-winged Ducks are decidedly thin on the ground. However, they are birds of lowland swamp forest, and a few of the 30 or so that live in Way Kambas are always to be found in tha vicinity of Way Kanan. It is just a matter of catching up with them-something which is much easier during the dry season between June and November, when water levels recede, leaving a few small pools, and you do not have to wade through waterlogged forest.

Rawa Gajah (elephant swamp), a 20-min paddle up the river from Way Kanan, is usually the first place to try. On the river you will have no trouble getting acquainted with the impressive Stork-billed Kingfisher-unmistakable, thanks to its large size and yellow head-and you will probably also see Grey-headed Fish-eagle perched on an over hanging bough. Rawa Gajah is a wetland of about 1 ha that dries out to grass and mud at the height of the dry season (October) but which, when flooded, is a regular spot for the ducks as wel as Lesser Adjutant.

Rawa Pasir (sand marsh) and the forest pond of Ulung-ulung Satu are also good areas for ducks: both are located 3-4 km from Way Kanan, along (for the first part) a well-maintained trail that starts behind the Tiger project building at Way Kanan. There are plenty of exciting birds to see on the way-so it is worth taking your lunch and making a day of it. The forest edge around Rawa Pasir can be particularly productive for leafbirds, bulbuls, flowerpeckers and sunbirds.

The ducks are incredibly wary, so getting good views before fly away is something of an art. The problem lies in the abrupt juxtaposition of forest and water; scanning the whole of the river at Rawa Pasir or the large pond at Ulung-ulung Satu without stepping into full view is almost impossible. Moreover, many birders can tell of how, after assuring themselves that no ducks were present, they stepped out into the open only for a group of ducks to explode in a blaze of black-and-white wing flashes from behind a semi submerged log.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Way Kambas National Park, Lampung, Sumatra, Indonesia

Looking for White-winged ducks and Frogmouth in Way Kambas National Park

Famed as the easiest locality in Sumatra to find White-winged Duck and Storm’s Stork (both endangered and both very elusive), the 130,000-ha Way Kambas National Park is also an excellent place to see other lowland forest species. The availability of overnight accommodation at Way Kanan, a small forest clearing on the banks of the scenic Way Kambas river, 13 km inside the park, means that you are right on the spot to search at dawn and dusk for shy forest species such as pheasants and frogmouths.

Sadly, Way Kambas is not a place where the magnificence of pristine Sumatran rain forest can be experienced. The area was logged out prior to its annexation for conservation in 1972 and the trees are still stunted in appearance. Luckily the birds and an impressively large number of animals have survived, and many of the 300 birds species can be seen during a 3-4 day visit. The park accessibility-under 8 hrs by road and ferry from Jakarta and by road and ferry from Jakarta and 1,5 hrs from Bandar Lampung airport-adds to its popularity.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching with Trawas for Environmental Education

Trawas’s Centre for Environmental Education

The Centre for Environmental Education (PPLH Seloliman) above Trawas, a 1, 5-hr drive inland from Surabaya, is a great place to combine fruitful birding with comfortable stay in the hills. You can see rare Thick-billed Flowerpeckers and Violet Cuckoos in the forest on the hill above the centre, and during the wet season, listen for the chirruping calls of Forest Wagtails. The Centre is planted with nectar rich Calliandra shrubs, which attract numerous flowerpeckers and sunbirds. It is delightful to watch splendid Javan, endemic Violet-tailed and Purple-throated Sunbirds from the breakfast table.

The walk below the centre to where tall forest drapes the river banks makes a pleasant 2-hr excursion, especially if you have so far missed Javan Kingfisher, Blue Whistling-thrush or the distinct Javan race of Greater Goldenback, all of which are quite common here. Some authorities consider the latter a full species on account of the female’s having a yellowish crown rather than the normal white-on-black pattern. In any event, walk the short distance from the Centre’s entrance to the main road, and at this junction follow a path leading down to the river, to check them out.

The more adventurous may wish to climb to mt Pananggungan (1,653 m), where there are good vantage points for eagle watching (Javan Hawk-eagle has been recorded here) and rewarding views of the surrounding area. The trail for the 3,5-hr climb starts from the Hindu temple a 15-min walk uphill (on the right0 from the Centre.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Kali Lemahan, Surabaya, East Java

Out to the Mud-flats

in the wet months between October and march, a boat journey down to the mud-flats at the mouth of the Kali Lemahan is a must. The pond owners will assist you to hire a small motorized prau (canoe) for the 45-min journey. Seeing the thousands of wintering or passage waders here is one of Java’s great birding experiences. These mud-flats are famous for the large numbers (up to 1,000) of rare Asian Dowitchers that spend the northern winter here. Indeed, the flats are a wader-watcher’s delight: 18 or more species can be found by carefully scanning the flocks with a telescope. Other highlights are Australian Pelicans, swimming out at sea, and another endangered species, Milky Stork; although often seen on the mud-flats, the latter has yet to be recorded breeding in this part of Java.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Ujung Pangkah, Surabaya, (East Java)

Ujung Pangkah’s Herons

Java’s largest heronry, however, is found in the more natural setting of the Ujung Pangkah area on the delta of the Bengawan Solo; this huge river, popular in nostalgic Javan songs, is just a 2-hr drive from Surabaya’s hustle and bustle. An entrepreneurial local fishpond keeper decided to protect the colony as it produced a cheap source of fertilizer which he used to raise Javan tilapia (a cichlid fish) in his pond. A careful scan through the breeding colony will reveal 13 waterbird species, including Oriental Darter, Black-headed Ibis and the odd Rufous Night Heron. This colony 25,000 or more birds has become a popular destination for day trippers and has earned the pond-keeper the prestigious kalpataru award, presented by the government to individuals who have worked to benefit the environment.

Ujung Pangkah’s offers a glimpse of how the whole of Java’s north coast used to look; today it has largely been converted to sterile shrimp pond. The patchwork of ponds, avenues of trees, swamps, mangrove bushes and undisturbed shores here, however, support a full complement of the island’s water and shorebirds.

After enjoying the heronry, walk around the fish ponds and to the nearby estuaries for more good birding. The neat, yellow Javan White-eye and the endangered Javan Coucal, which reveals its presence with a loud “booping” call. Are two speciality species that inhabit the bushes and trees edging the ponds. Swampy areas along the coast are good for Sunda Teal-easily recognized by its strange, bulging forehead, the rare Bronze-winged Jacana and flocks of Asian Golden Weaver.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Around Surabaya (East Java)

Surabaya

Around Surabaya

Herons and Dowitchers on the Solo Delta

At first glance the industrialized region of Surabaya may not seem very promising for birding, but marveling at spectacular heronries, watching Asian Dowitchers on the Solo Delta, or relaxing at the hill retreat of Trawas are just some of the highlights this area has to offer.

Sadly, the abundant egrets and herons that once enlivened Java’s rice fields are becoming a sight of the past; pesticides, persecution and the destruction of suitable nesting trees have all taken their toll. Today, heronries are generally restricted to remote reserves and off-shore islands, but nesting herons also find safe havens in some of Java’s big cities. In Surabaya, a large colony of night herons has taken up residence in the zoo, where their droppings try the patience of zoo-keepers and visitors alike.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Wasur National Park (Papua)

Wasur National Park

The 13,00 ha Wasur National Park, located in the extreme southeast of Papua, bordering the Papua New Guinea border, is a veritable bird paradise and access is easy. The flat expanse of the vast Fly-Digul River delta is a mosaic of swamps, reedbeds and open savannah woodlands with denser forests along the rivers. In the dry season, literally thousands of waterbirds-many migrants from Australia-concentrate on the receding pools. There are mangroves and mudflats to search for shorebirds, and two species of bird-of-paradise in the denser forest.

Key species

Australian Bustard

www.anhs.com.au

Southern Cassowary, Brolga Crane, Magpie Goose, Australian Bustard, Noisy Pitta, Rufous-bellied and Spangled Kookaburras. Recently, Crimson Finch, White-spotted and Grey-crowned Mannikins and Fly River Grassbird have all been recorde on the Papua side of the Fly River and are all new additions to the Indonesian bird list. Black Mannikin, present just a few km across the border in Papua New Guinea, has not yet been confirmed in Wasur National Park.

Other wildlife

Sugar Glider, Striped Possum, Rusa Deer, Agile Wallaby and forest wallabies, bandicoots and cuscus.

Getting there

The best place to get information and help in arranging tours to the national park is the World Wide Fund for Nature office on Jl Brawijaya sepadem, WWF are developing community tourism activities, including birding, in the park. Hiring a jeep is expensive unless you are in a group (around $75 a day, which includes driver/guide and fuel). It is cheaper and more pleasant to hire horses from the villagers. This creates less disturbance and provides a good vantage point for watching birds if you hang on (the horse are very tame). The WWF office will give you the price per day and can help you arrange a guide. The park entrance fee (pay at either Wasur or Ndalir KSDA posts) is a IDR 2,000 per person. Do not forget copies of your surat jalan for the police posts in the park.

For the Maro river trip, you ideally need two days. Arrange boat hire from the Kelapa Lima Maro river crossing, just to the north of Merauke. Like jeep hire, it is more economical if there are several people sharing the expense. Prices could be from IDR 400,000-900,000 per day including a boatman. Take all your own food.

Accommodation/dining

There are guest-houses in four villages; Yanggandur and Soa (for greater Bird-of-paradise), Onggaya (by the beach near Ndalir) and Soa (on the Maro river). These provide very simple accommodation, cooking equipment ets. Take your own food and water into the park.

General information

The best time to visit from August to December.

If you hire a jeep and driver for the 3-day trip described in the colour section, spend the first night at Tomeran village and the second at Ukra. Leave Ukra mid-morning to get to Rawa Biru by early afternoon. Ask the driver to meet you in Yanggandur and spend the rest of the afternoon (3-4 hrs) walking the track up to Yanggandur. Spend the night here for a dawn sighting of Greater Bird-of-paradise. Leave Yanggandur mid-morning to allow time to look around Wasur village on the way back to town. If you only have 2 nights, go straight to Ukra on the first night (you can get there in one day if you rush) and Yanggandur on the second.

At the village of Soa, about 5-6 hours up river (depending on tide), arrange for guide to take you in the monsoon forest nearby. Best chances to find the King Bird-of-paradise will be early in the morning.

Be very of snakes in Wasur; there are some real nasties including Taipan and Death Adder. There is no snake bite serum available in Merauke, so watch where you tread.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in The Lake Habbema Trek

The lake Habbema Trek

One of the world’s classic birding treks, from the high alpine lake and marshes down through pine, moss and rain forest into the Baliem Valley. Truly amazing birds-see below-and a people and culture from another age. Not tobe missed, and, as there is a road up to lake Habbema, the birds can be enjoyed on a (mostly) downhill trail.

Key species

Blue-breasted Quails

www.zyworld.com

Snow Mountain and Blue-breasted Quails, Swinhoe’s Snipe, Orange-billed Lorikeet, Painted Tiger-parrot, Lorentz’s Whistler, Sooty Honeyeater, Snow Mountain Munia, Archbold’s Bowerbird, Macgregor’s Bird-of-paradise, Brown Sicklebill, Splendid Astrapia, King of Saxony Bird-of-paradise.

Getting there

To get to Lake Habbema, charter a jeep ($30) for the 90-min drive up a new road.

General information

The requisite surat jalan should be obtained, eg at Jayapura/Sentani, before flying into Wamena. When you arrive in Wamena, the police check your passport and permit. The desk clerk at the hotel/losmen will ask for these, and will usually be able to send someone to the police station (which is just behind Pasar Nayak) to take care of this for you. Make sure that your permit is endorsed for Lake Habbema, if necessary.

The trek runs up the Ibele Valley, from the village of the same name to Lake Habbema. It can be done in either direction and, although there is some satisfaction in walking up through the different habitats found with increasing altitude, and out into the alpine zone, it is hard not to resist taking the new road to “the top” at Lake Habbema and enjoying the birding while walking downhill.

There are no “official” places to stay or eat on the trail. It is possible to manage without a tent-by staying in the rather dilapidated “post”-but it is helpful to have one available. Food has to be carried in, as only sweet potatoes and eggs, are available in the villages.

The first day is spent birding the alpine grasslands and marshes around Lake Habbema (3,000 m), with a spectacular panorama across to the rugged, snow-capped peaks of the Snow (Jayawijaya) Mountains, Pos IV, a hut by the lake, is dilapidated and leaky. From the lake it is about a 2-hr walk over the pass (3,200 m) to Pos III, located in moss forest and the place to stay for the first night. The trail down the Ibele valley is not too steep, but can be very muddy and slippery.

Walking times (at an average birding pace) between places to stay are listed below.

How long you take is entirely up to you.

Habbema to Pos III 1.5-2 hrs

Pos III to Yaubagema 3 hrs

Yaubagema to Dyela 3 hrs

Dyela to Ibele 5 hrs

Ibele to Beneme 2.5 hrs

Alternatively,

Dyela to Depolo 3 hrs,

Depolo to Beneme 5 hrs

At Beneme the cultivation starts. You can catch a bus (or truck) back to Wamena from either Ibele or Beneme (1.5 or 1 hr).

Rain is a possibility at any time but there is said to be drier period from March-May, with July also relatively dry. The temperature is generally pleasant during the day but it can be cold at night, particularly at the higher altitudes.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Biak and Supiori Islands (Papua)

Biak and Supiori Islands

These two islands in Geelvink (Cenderawasih) By support 5 endemic species and another 3 shared only with neighbouring Numfor Island. This is reason enough to make the flight out from Jayapura or Sorong to Biak. The Indonesian Government is making efforts to develop tourism on the island. Biak itself is largely deforested; neighbouring Supiori is a nature reserve, although the terrain makes for quite difficult walking.

Key species

Yellow-bibbed Fruit-dove
www.bird-stamps.org

The endemics are Yellow-bibbed Fruit-dove, Biak Red Lory, Geelvink Pygmy Parrot, Biak Coucal,, Biak Paradise-kingfisher, Biak Monarch, Biak Flycatcher, Biak White-eye.

General Information

All but one of the endemics can be found in an area of mixed degraded and primary forest on the far eastern tip of Biak. Charter a vehicle in Biak town to take you east along the southern coast road via Mokmer and Bosnik to Warafri (take a turning on the left just before the Barito Pacific base camp), about an hour’s drive from Biak. Bird along the road or logging tracks.

In Supiori, the place to head for is the village of Korido on the southwest coast. Public boats leave from Biak town only erratically, so probably the best option is to hire a powered longboat for the trip. A bridge now connects Biak and Supiori. The section of road between Yemdoker and Korido is finished, but the section between Yemdoker and Sorendiveri is still under construction. You will need 2-3 days to stand a good chance of finding the endemics, and the 5-hr sea trip can be wet and is not totally safe. Expect to pay $75-100 for the 3-day charter. The police station in Korido will sort you out with basic accommodation. There is a steep trail into primary forest behind the village and trails running inland and paralled to the coast in both directions from Korido. A site for the intrepid only

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Batanta Island (Papua)

Batanta island

Located off the western tip of the vogelkop peninsula, this island is the only home of the-even by bird-of-paradise standards-extraordinary Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise. Guides will take you to a lek, and in a visit of two days you should see other memorable and rare species such as Red Bird-of-paradise, Pheasant Pigeon, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Papuan frogmouth, and Puff-backed Meliphaga. The overall species diversity is however, much lower than on the mainland.

Wilson's Bird-of-paradise
www.surfbirds.com

Getting there

At the jetty in Sorong, the regional capital of the Vogelkop Peninsula, served by daily flights from Ambon, Biak, Jayapura and Jakarta (via Ujung Pandang), find a boat to hire for the 3-day return trip to Batanta. Expect to pay around $300 for 3 days, including petrol. The crossing to Yenenes on Batanta takes 3-3.5 hrs, then it is a further 1.5 hrs east along the coast to Wai Lebed (a village of a dozen or so huts strung along the beach).

General information

In Wai Lebed, if you want to see Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise get local guide to go there. The trail runs runs along the shore to a small lodge that offers good accommodation. Here the forest meets the sea. The Red Birds-of-paradise are a few hundred metres inland in the lowland forest. The Wilson’s lek is a tough, 1.5 hr walk up to a ridge on the flank of Mt Batanta. You have to start at dawn.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Arfak Mountains

Arfak mountains

The spectacular Arfak mountains, on the eastern corner of the Vogelkop peninsula rise steeply behind the coastal town of Manokwari. Dissected by roaring torrents and sheer, steep-sided valley gorges, trekking into the Arfaks takes stamina, but the effort is rewarded with sightings of some spectacular species only found in the mountains of the Vogelkop Peninsula.

Key species

Magnificent Bird-of-paradise

www.answers.com

Wattled Brush-turkey, Vogelkop Whistler, Vogelkop Bwerbird, Long-tailed Paradigalla, Buff-tailed and Black Sicklebills, Arfak Astrapia, Western Parotia, Magnificent Bird-of-paradise.

Getting there
Manokwari to Mokwam
The Mission Aviation Fellowship (MAF) flies every week or two to Wokwam but more frequently to Minyambou, which is an easy few hour’s walk from Mokwam. They will try to schedule a flight to suit your timing if given several day’s notice, but it is very difficult to contact them other than in person; WWF or a travel agent may be able to help. The cost is very reasonable and depends on the total weight of the party and luggage. It is unlikely to exceed $50 a journey! Their hangar and operations are located on the far side of the airport.

Accommodation
There is virtually no accommodation or food in the Arfaks. However, the porters/guides are adept at building waterproof shelters so it is fesible to manage without a tent. At Mokwam it may be possible to stay in the WWF hut, if pre-arranged with WWF, a valuable source of information-and possibly assistance-in manokwari.

General information
The permit or surat jalan is most conveniently arranged in Jayapura (at Sentani Airport, at the police/immigration office just outside the terminal) or Biak. You may need an endorsement to travel outside Manokwari, so report to the local police on arrival.

Porters are easily hired in Mokwam to carry luggage, food and cooking utensils, all of which you should bring with you. The guides can show you good birds around Mokwam, eg Long-tailed Paradigalla and Western Parotia on Siobri, and the spectacular bowers of Arfak Bowerbird.

Rain occurs most days throughout the year, especially in the afternoon and evening. It is warm/hot every day but can be quite cool at night on or near the ridge. There are a few leeches and mosquitos.

taken from Birding indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Papua

Important notes for travelers in Papua

As a foreigner wishing to move around Papua. It will be necessary to first obtain your Surat keterangan jalan or traveling permit. This traveling permit issued by the Head of Police and lists the places that you are approved to visit. At airports in Papua, the police usually check whether you have the correct traveling permit before they will allow you on the plane.

Even you do manage to get on the plane without the permit, at your destination police will check the arrival of all foreigners and you will need to show the permit to them. Therefore, although it means spending an extra day in Jayapura to get the permit, you are strongly advised to do so, as this will significantly reduce your risk of hassles with authorities when traveling within the province.

 

Papua mens

www.infopapua.com

Planes to Jayapura arrive in Sentani airport some 45 minutes from Jayapura town. You may need to travel into jayapura itself to visit the police station. From the airport, an airport taxi will set you back IDR 100,000 for an air conditioned minibus which will take you to wherever you want to go. Alternatively you can take a three stage regular taxi ride from the airport and you will share a smaller vehicle with around 20 other people. Using this means, you go from Sentani to Abepura (IDR 2,000), from Abepura to Terminal Entrop (IDR 2,000) and from Terminal Entrop to jayapura centre (IDR 2,000).

Traveling permits can obtained at either the local level police station (POLRES)
When you arrive at the Police station head for the “Bagian Orang Asing” (Foreigner Section) and ask for a surat keterangan jalan. At this stage you will need to state all the places you want to visit, so that the police can make one Travelling Permit for all your intended visits. It best to list all your possible destinations (your flight is cancelled, the plane doesn’t arrive?) you can still visit somewhere else. You will need to take with you half a dozen copies of your passport sized photo of yourself. Once you get your permit, make several copies as you will need to leave a copy of it with the police in each the places you are visiting.

Bear in mind that the “Bagian Orang Asing” normally shuts on Saturday and Sundays, so try to arrive in Jayapura when the following day is a week day, other wise you will be hanging around Jayapura for the weekend. Also try to get the police station in the morning, as things shut up around two in the afternoon.

source Birding Indonseia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Kai Island

Kai Island The Kai Islands. Kai Kecil, Dullah (Tual) and Kai Besar, are not as bird rich as the Tanimbars, but nevertheless support 4 endemic species. Kai Coucal is common on all three islands, White-tailed Monarch and Great Kai White-eye are confined to Kai Besar, and little Kai White-eye to kai Kecil. The beaches are an added attraction: those on Kai Kecil are truly a vision of paradise.

However, the vegetation is mainly scrub and only a few patches of good forest remain. There is good forest to be found on Kai Besar and other islands in the group; Warlaba and Manir.

Getting there
The airport is located at langgur, on Kai Kecil, which is connected to Dulah Island by a bridge. Tual, the capital of southeast maluku, is on Dullah. Taxis ($7) meet the plane for the 20-min drive into Tual. Alternatively walk out to the main road and jump on a bemo for IDR 2,000.

Accommodation and Dining
There are a few losmen in Tual. The bay is huge, the beach just idyllic, and there is easy access to forest behind. Trails lead about 5 km into the forest and there are lots of scrubfowl mounds. Catch a bus from the new Langgur Terminal (IDR 2,000) or charter a bemo ($3).

The stunning Pasar Panjang beach at Ohoillilir (also on the west coast0 is popular with locals and back-packers alike. A group of beach cottages is located 500 m north of the village. The beach is 15 km from Tual; take a bus from the Langgur Terminal (IDR 5,000).

General Information
Taman Anggrek, signposted on the right just before Dullah village, a short bus journey from Langgur Terminal, has a patch of forest surrounding a small lake. Kai Cicadabird and Little Kai White-eye have been seen here.

There is nice patch of mangrove forest (at ur), about 5 km outside Tual. From Tual take a bemo signed Ur. In Ur village ask directions to “Hutan Bakau”. Wander around the bay and through the mangroves.

There still good forest in the northern part of Kai Besar. The raja of Watlaar, on the northwestern shore, is a proponent of the role of traditional law in forest conservation. Ferries leave a small quay in Ohoiren (close to the bridge on the Langgur side) at 10.00 am and 12.00 am to Banda Eli on Kai Besar. From there catch a bemo to Yamtel on the east coast, from where longboats leave at 2 pm for the 3-hr journey up the coast (IDR 30,00).

source Birding indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Yamdena, Tanimbar Islands (Maluku)

Yamdena (Tanimbar islands)Yamdena is well off the beaten track and has only been visited by a handful of birders, but beautiful, pristine, tropical ecosystems and 8 endemic species, including a megapode, cockatoo, two thrushes and two fantails, make Yamdena well worth a visit.

General information

There is only one road, which runs along the southeast coastline. Arrange with your hotel for a vehicle and driver for the day (about $40) and simply drive up the road until you find promising looking places. About 20 km out of Saumlaki (there are no km marker posts) is a large chicken-rearing compound on the right. The birding is good if you walk north along an old logging track leading into a forest grassland mosaic on the left after 500 m. 5 km past the compound the road crosses a large tidal channel. The tail forest to the south of the channel, on the east side of the road, is good area for endemics, icluding Slaty-backed Thrush.

It is also worth hiring a speedboat to explore the western seaboard of Yamdena, but hire costs are high (at least $150 per day) island Whistler is quite easy to find on small islands at the entrance to Saumlaki Bay, and you should see Australian Pelican and Great-billed Heron. A great 2-3 day trip is to head up the western coast to the remote village of Matikan, which backs onto pristine monsoon forests, with a diversion along the way to explore the mangrove and swamp forests fringing the Salwassa Bay.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Banda Islands

Banda islandsThe tiny Banda islands are one of Indonesia’s best get-away-from-it-all destinations. Fabulous diving and snorkeling and opportunities for other watersports such as wind-surfing, water-skiing and fishing, coupled with the island’s fascinating history, attract increasing numbers of tourists but the islands have not yet been spoilt by unsightly tourist developments. For the bird-watcher these islands offer a few interesting small-island specialities and very good seabird-watching opportunities.

Getting there
By sea the large Pelni passenger liner, rinjani, stops in Banda every second Friday and the following Sunday, before heading on to Ujung Pandang, Surabaya, Jakarta and Dumai (Sumatra), and then back again on its 2-week route. Perintis lines offer deck passage at something like $3, but they can be slow and uncomfortable.

Accommodation/dining
All accommodation on Banda tends to fill during October and the last 2 weeks of December-reserve ahead. The only two hotels in Bandaneira are owned by Des Alwi, Who organizes diving operations on the islands. There is a selection of homestay.

General information
The rainy season is from mid-June through August (southeast monsoon) high winds (the west monsoon) can blow from mid-January to February (the east monsoon).

Foreign exchange there are no banks on Banda, so bring all the rupiahs you will need from Ambon.

Boat rentals;
Large vessel: Diesel-powered, for more than 10 passengers, $150/day, $25/hr.
Launch: Diesel-powered, 5-10 passengers, $100/day, $20/hr.
Speedboat: Gasoline-powered, 4 passengers, $110/day, $25/hr.
Manuk Islands for the 2-3 day journey out to this island (about 120 km southeast of banda) Indonesia’s largest seabird colony, you will need the large vessel; they charge about 4880 for this trip.
Lontar (Banda Besar) to reach Lontar Island, to see the nutmeg groves and fort Holandia, charter a boat from one of the hotels or from a free-lancer at the dock near the market.

Birdwatching in Galala, Halmahera (Maluku)

Galala

The extraordinary, 1.5-km nesting beach of the Moluccan Scrubfowl is located 4 km to the north of Galela. The scrubfowls fly in at night, so getting good views is difficult-just before dawn is best. The nest ground is managed in a traditional manner and birders should not go without a letter of introduction from eitheeer Anu or Pak Amir at the PHPA office in Tobelo. With this you will be able to stay in one of the small huts; bring your own food, candles and mosquito repellent.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Labi-labi, Halmahera (Maluku)

Labi-labi
This village is located on the east side of Kao Bay, and is the site of the most easily accessible display area of Wallace’s standardwing, which was filmed by the BBC for “Attenborough in Paradise” in 1995. the tree is in an area of limestone forest a 4-km trek from the village. There is a shelter in the forest and the villagers are organized with tarpaulin and cooking equipment to run a pleasant jungle camp.

Getting there

There is no public transport to this site and you will need Anu to take you there. Unfortunately the trip is currently expensive-$750 per group-because there are only two speedboats to hire for the 2-hr crossing. Anu has an arrangement with the village head that every visiting bird group will make a donation (included in the price) to pay for guarding the display area. If you get to Labi-labi independently, please support this system. The speedboats leave either from Kao or Toebelo.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Tanah Batu Putih, Halmahera (Maluku)

Halmahera

Most birders satisfy themselves with birding around Kali Batu Putih and Sidangoli mangroves, where virtually all the 24 speciees endemic to Norrth Maluku can be found but, time and budget permitting, a 4-5 day trip to the standarwing lek at Labi-labi and Moluccan Scrubfowl nestground at Galela is recommended.

Tanah Batu Putih

This is an area of logged and disturbed forest in the hills leading oout of Sidangoli, where most of Halmaheera’s speciality species can be seen during a 3-4 day visit. A basic birwatchers’ losmen is run by Demianus Bagali, usually known as Anu.

Key species

Most species endemic to North maluku including: Wallace’s Standarwing, Paradise Crow, Ivory-breasted Pitta, Dusky Scrubfowl, Moluccan Owlet-nightjar, Gurney’s Eagle, Halmahera Cuckoo-shrike. Invisible Rail was re-discovered by Anu in the nearby Akelolo sago swamp.

Accommodation

Anu’s losmen burnt down in 1995. he is rebuilding it on the left of the road by the start of the logging trail $8 per night; $6 extra for three basic meals. Anu charges $12 per day for guiding.

Getting there

From the ferry terminal at Sidangoli take a bemo (IDR 9,000) or becak (IDR 2,000) to Anu’s brother shop, Toko mandiri, in Desa Domato, 1 km away. He will tell you where Anu is and run you up to Tanah Batu Putih for $4.50.

General information

Anu known the best sites to see each of the key species and they are also noted in the birder’s logbook. There are three main trails; the first climbs a hill of good forest across the stream in the valley to the right of Anu’s losmen and is the place to see Wallace’s Standardwing Ivory breasted Pitta and Nicobar Pigeon. To the left of the main road, and old logging trail leading up the valley for several km is the most productive birding area. A summit, a 2-km wwalk up the main road, provides an excellent vantage point to watch for raptors at midday.

In Sidangoli, the Akelolo sago swamp, where invisible rail has recently been seen, should not be missed. The nicest wway to get there is to hire a longboat from Sidangoli ($10-15) for the journey through the mangroves to the village of Akelolo. Good chance of Beach Kingfisher and plenty of Imperial Pigeons. Alternatively, the swamp can be reached on foot. It is a hot, 2-km walk along a trail on the right of the main road, 1 km oout of Siddangoli. Exploring the swamp requires wading up to your knees in mud-and the rail only calls after heavy rrain! Yoou will need Anu to show you the beest area; do not forget to ask him to show you the Great-billed Heron nest tree.

Birdwatching in Lake Tolire Besar, Ternate (Maluku)

Ternate

The tiny island of Ternate, less than 10 km in diameter, and its similar sized neighboour, Tidorre, were once the world’s only source of clovees and in the past saaw bloody conflicts between the Portuguese, Spanish, British and Dutch for control of the lucrative spice trade. Today Ternate, with a population of 50,000, is the second larggeest city in Maluku and, for birders, the hopping off place for Halmahera.

Around ternate

Lake Tolire Besar

This stunning, emerald, crater lake surrounded by 50 m high cliffs is a wonderful birding hang-out. Sit on the high rim and scan the trees fringing the lake for White-Cockatoo and Blue-capped Fruit-dove and the forested slopes of the Gamalama volcano for Gourney’s Eagle. Watch Great-billed Parrots flying across and walk the trail round the crater rim looking for dusky Scrubfowl, friarbirds and munias.

Great-billed Parrots
www.avianweb.com

Getting there

The lake is almost halfway round the island from Ternate town and it is best to charter a bemo to get to it. From the road, it is a 15-min wwalk up throough scrubby forest to the crater edge.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatcing in Manusela National Park (Maluku)

Manusela National Park The rugged Manusela National Park on Seram vies with Halmahera as Maluku’s premier birding destination on accaount of its many endemic species and unspoilt wilderness. Expedition-style trekking is required to enter the park, and going is tough.

Key species

Moluccan Red Lories
www.birdbaby.com

Southern Cassowary, Blue-eared, Purple-naped and Moluccan Red Lories, Salmon-crested Cockatoo, Lazuli Kingfisher, Pale Cicadabird, Moluccan Thrush, Streak-breasted Fantail, Bicoloured Honeyeater, Seram Friarbird, Long-crested Myna, Black-naped Oriole.

Getting there
Enter the National Park either from Mosso on the south coast or Wahai on the north coast. The trail from Mosso is unbelieveably steep so it is best to start at Wahai.

For Wahai, there are a number of bus companies that leave from Ambon to Saka, on Seram’s north coast. One is Anugrah, which leaves at 6.00 am from Jl Mesjid Jaya Al Fatah by the Al Fatah Mosque. Buy your tickets the day before from the offices in this street. Other buses leave from the Batuh Merah end of Mardeka bus terminal. The journey takes 8 hrs, and costs IDR 100,000 including ferry. Public speedboats for the 2-hour journey along the coast from saka to Wahai meet the buses; they arrive in Wahai between 5 and 6 pm (IDR 40,000).

If you wish to go to Mosso, the best way is to cross to Amahai on Seram from the small port of Telehu in northeast Ambon, then either charter a speedboat ($50, 8-10 people, 2 hrs) or catch the public ferry, lae-lae: departures at 8.00 am and 1.00 pm ($7.2 hrs) Amahai to Mosso involves first a 4-hr bus ride to district town of Tehoru (IDR 30,000), then either a 20-min chartered speedboat ride to Mosso ($25) or a 1-hr pok-pok (unsafe and wet motorized prau) journey.

Accommodation
In Mosso stay with the kepala desa (village head) in Wahai,, at Losmen Sinar Indah, $7, or $9 with meals. It is also possible to stay at the National Park Centre, but take your own food.

General information
The National Park Centre at Sasa Ratu is about 10 km from Wahai on the road to Pasahari. There are regular buses from Wahai to Pasahari (IDR 20,000-25,000). There is good roadside birding along the roa to Pasahari, which passes through forest for 10 km. walk, or charter a bemo for IDR 40,000/hr.

Ask the park staff to guide you along the trail to the nipa and mangrove swamps, a walk to the nipa and mangrove swamps, a walk of 2 km north of the HQ; the guide will cost $5. at the harbour in Wahai, speed boats can be hired to take you along the coast to the same mangroves; $30-40 for half a day.

To go trekking in Manusela, report to Pak Edi at the National Park or (better) at his home in Wahai with your permits, which you must get in Ambon City before departing, to arrange your trek. Also report in at the police station in Wahai. You need to take cooking equipment, food and, depending on your route, caming gear; this can be bought in Wahai, Strong, worn-in walking boots are essential. Make sure also that you take a compass and rain gear. Expect to pay $7-10 per day for your guide, $5 per day per porter plus their food and cigarettes.

For routes see map. Approximate walking times between villages or over-night camps, not counting birding stops are:
Wahai to Wasa; 6-7 hrs, gentle up-hill walk, stay in village.
Wasa to Roho; 5-6 hrs, uphill walk, stay in village.
Roho to Wasa Mata; 3 hrs, steady uphill, stay in shelter.
Wasa Mata to Kanieh; 4-5 hrs, over ridge, stay in village. (Roho to Kanikeh can be done in a day-it depends on how much time you want to spend birding).
Kanikeh to Selumena; 7 hrs. initial 1.5-hr climb out of Kanikeh valley then a flat walk to Selumena, largely following river. Stay in village.
Selumena to Manusela; 3-4 hrs, undulating and muddy with river crossings, stay in village.
Manusela to Hatumete (south coast); a hell walk which can be done in 8 hrs, but more likely 12. leave Manusela at first light and make the 1,200 m ascent to the summit as quickly as possible (3-3.5 hrs). the almost 2,000 m descent is 5-6 hrs solid walking. Be warned: the trail is dangerous-steep and slippery-in places. Stay in Sinar Hari, a small cluster of houses with spectacular views 2 hrs before Hatumete or Mosso.
Kobipoto to Solalama; 7 hrs, downhill, forest camp.
Solalama to Sola; 7 hrs, flattish but swampy, stay in village.
Sola to Wahai; a full day’s walk on a track.

If you plan to climb towards Mt Binaya from Kanikeh, you should make a small offering before you go. The adapt (customary) law of the area embraced the sudden arrival of hundreds of western Operation Raleigh ventures with the interpretation that they were returning to the homes of the ancestors and your guides will be fearful if you ascend the mountain without first making an offering to your own ancestors.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in around Ambon City (Maluku)

Sirimau
Just 6 km from town the 550 m Sirimau hill is tipped with a 1-ha patch of rain forest surrounding a sacred urn and stone stools, where once the Raja of Soya held meetings. The area is a tourist park, and the forest is a 15-min walk from the entrance gate at the end of the Soya road. two trails wind through the forest.

Key Species

Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove
www.camacdonald.com

White-eyed Imperial Pigeon, Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove, Claret-breasted Fruit-dove, Common Paradise-kingfisher, Golden Bulbul, Island and Slaty Monarchs, Ashy Flowerpecker and Ambon Yellow White-eye.
Getting there
take an orange bemo signed "Soya" from Mardeka bus station to the end of the line (IDR 2,000).


Passo BayAn easily accessible area of mangroves and mud-flats at the eastern end of Ambon Bay. At low tide good for egrets, cormorants, terns and migrant waders.
Getting there
From Mardeka bus station, take the red minibus to Hunut. Ask to get off 200 m after Taman Passo.


Hila
The forested hills behind Hila,, on the north coast of Ambon, are full of parrots. This is the best birding site on Ambon and exploring it is a morning or full-day excursion.
Key Species
Gurney's Eagle, Lazuli Kingfisher, Claret-breasted Fruit-dove, Long-tailed Mountain-pigeon, Salmon-crested Cockatoo, Red Lory, Eclectus and Great-billed Parrots, Ambon Yellow White-eye.
Getting there
Hila is 42 km from Ambon City, where there are regular buses from Batu Merah bus station. The journey takes 70 min, cost IDR 8,000.
General Information
The trail starts just before a bridge, 50 m to the east of Manusela Beach Hotel. Almost immediately the trail forks. Take the right-hand track and climb steeply for about 1 hr through clove plantation to a viewpoint overlooking a valley; continue on upwards for another hour to a field. Skirt round the bottom of this and continue on until a second field, which offers a spectacular view of the valley and is an excellent raptor and parrot-watching spot.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Maluku

Maluku
Ambon City
Ambon city (95 sq km) is the capital of Maluku province and the starting point for trips to Seram and Banda. the wet season falls between May and August.

Getting there
Pattimura Airport is on Ambon island's Hitu Peninsula, across the bay from Ambon city-37 km and 45 mins by road. A vehicle and passenger ferry runs every few minutes between Poka and Galala, where the bay narrows, which cuts the travelling distance in half. the airport taxis charge $9 for the trip. You can get to town more cheapy by taking public transport from the roadside in front of the airport to the ferry terminal at Poka. From Galala, the ferry terminal on the other side of the bay, shared taxis whisk passengers the remaining 6 km into town.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Tamoko (Sulawesi)

Tamoko
Take the bus from Tahunan to Tamoko (5 hrs, IDR 15,000 ). There are no losmen in Tamoko, so report to the kepala Desa (village head) and ask him to find you somewhere to stay. From the market in Tamoko take another bus to Kentuhang (1 hr; IDR 3,000). Get off at the end of the road, where it branches into two unsurfaced tracks that lead up to the crater rim. Take either track and climb steeply. After 2-3 hrs of secondary scrub the tracks enter forest. Red-and-Blue Lory and Caerulean Paradise-flycatcher have not been seen here yet, but Sangihe Hanging-parrot and Elegant Sunbird are easy, as are Blue-backed Parrot, Blue-tailed Imperial Pigeon, Hooded Pitta, Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, Pied Cuckoo-shrike and Black-fronted White-eye.

Birdwatching in Sangihe Island (Sulawesi)

Sangihe Island
Sangihe is the largest of a group of 77 islands (47 inhabited) strewn between North Sulawesi and the Philippines. Sangihe is almost totally covered in mixed plantations but the island’s four endemic species, Red-and-Blue Lory, Sangihe Hanging-parrot, Elegant Sunbird and Caerulean Paradise-flycatcher, can be found in forest remnants surviving on two of the island’s volcanoes, the active Mt Awu in the north and Tamako in the south-west.

Caerulean Paradise Flycatcher
www.biologicaldiversity.org

The paradise-flycatcher was though to be extinct until a british expedition made a brief sighting of one on Mt Awu in 1995.

Getting there
Passenger ferries leave the harbour every other evening at 6.00 pm. Check on the blackboard at the harbour for sailing dates. Fare is $5 for the 12-hr journey; cabins can be rented from the crew for $7. bemos meet the ferry to transport you to the other end of town, where accommodation is concentrated.

Mount Awu
From the terminal take the bus to Talawid Atas (2-3 hrs, IDR 15,000). Get off at the school, walk right along the road and pass a junction after 50 m. after a further 50 m the trail upwards through plantations for 1 hr. it climbs a ridge with forest in the valley on either side and plantations along the ridge top. This trail continues for 3-4 hrs but does not enter forest; however, you can see Sangihe Hanging-parrot and Red-and-Blue Lory flying overhead and Elegant Sunbird in mixed flocks in the plantation trees. This is where the 1995 sighting of Caerulean paradise-flycatcher was made.

source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park

Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park
The Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park, formerly Dumoga Bone, is one of the two biggest terrestrial national parks of Sulawesi encompassing 300,000 ha of rainforest from 50-2,000 m above sea level. Almost all of Sulawesi’s 75 endemic species occur in the park.

Endemic birds that are common and conspicuous in the park include: Sulawesi Serpen-eagle, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Isabelline Waterhen, Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Golden-mantled Raquet-tail, Fiery-billed Malkoha, Great-billed Kingfisher, Red-knobbed Hornbill, Ashy Woodpecker, Pied Cockoo-shrike, Sulawesi Babbler, Finch-biled and White-necked Mynas, Yellow-sided and grey-sided Flowerpeckers. Others are more locally distributed but still relatively easy to observe, like Maleo and Purple-winged Roller.

Other Wildlife
Crested Black Macaque, Wild Bear and spectral Tarsier can be found around the guest-house in Duloduo. Try the veranda of the guest house in the evening with the flights on for bats and huge beetles and butterflies,. In the forest keep an eye out for bear and Dwarf Cuscus.

Getting there
The village of Duloduo, some 2 km from the park headquarters can be reached directly by bus from the Malalayang bus station in southwest manado. If requested the bus might stop at Koasinggolan dam, just behind Duloduo, from which it is less then 1 km to the offices (cross the small dam left and continue on this road). The Manado-Dulodou trip takes about 6 to 7 hours and costs about IDR 25,000.

Another entrance of the park with a good access to the forest is Toraut. Small buses (oplets) go from Duloduo to Toraut (12 km; IDR 5,000).

Accommodation/dining
The headquarters in Dulodou include a guest-house with two rooms for two people each. Food is available on request. One night including three meals costs about IDR 90,000. Though more remote, the Toraut area offers sleeping facilities for quite large numbers.

General Information
Visitors have to register at the Dulodou or Toraut offices. A small fee has to be paid for insurances each day (about IDR 5,000).

Entering the forest is allowed only with a park guide, none of whom speak any English. The guide fee is around IDR 50,000 a day. A good birding trip from Dulodou is the track to the Matayangan village and Maleo nesting ground. This trip starts from the guest-house in Dulodou and takes about 8 hours, including transportation to Dulodoou from Matayangan village.

A nice trip in the Dumoga valley is a visit to the Maleo nesting ground of Tambun. Arrange transportation and guide the day before, leave early to the village of Imandi (“market with bats”) and go inland to Mokintop village, total costs between IDR 50,000-80,000). Another possibility is leaving the night before and staying in the small guest-house of Imandi (50 m next to the post office).

Less than two km before Mokintop is the Tambun Maleo nesting ground. Maleos are around between October and May. Be there early to see the birds. In Mokintop village Purple-winged Roller are common.
The road from Imandi to Mokinto gives good opportunities for rails, herons and raptors, while the Dumoga valley in the west, which is not part of the park, is rich in herons, rails and waders.

Rainfall is generally evenly distributed throughout the year with relative wet periods from November to January and from March to May and dry spells from June to Octaober and in February, although local patterns of rainfall show great differences.

An excellent, full-colour guidebook with some superb photographs, north Sulawesi; a Natural History Guide, by Dr Margaret Kinnaird, is available from the wallacea Development Institute.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Tangkoko/Dua Saudara Nature Reserve

Tangkoko/Dua saudara Nature Reserve

Three forested volcanoes form the core of this 8,800 ha reserve on the northernmost tip of Sulawesi. An open forest understorey makes for excellent viewing conditions at all levels in the canopy and on the ground, and an abundance of figs and other fruit trees results in high densities of fruit-eating birds and mammals. It is possible to bird coral flats, lowland forests and cloud forest on volcanic summits all in a day, but you will get more out of the trip if you allow at least 2 days.

Key species

Forty-seven Sulawesi endemics including Red-billed and Sulawesi Hanging-parrots, Yellow-breasted and Golden-matled Racquet-tails, Blue-backed Parrot and Yellow-and-green Lorikeet. Yellow-billed Malkoha, Hair-crested Drongo, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Red-knobbed and Tarictic Hornbills. If you travel by sea watch out for Lesser Frigatebird, Brown and Red-footed Boobies, Sooty Tern and several species of swallow.

Other Wildlife
Spectral Tarsier, a tiny,, nocturnal primate; Bear Cuscus, a pouched mammal related to the kangaroo, that moves slowly through the canopy aided by a prehensile tail; black macaques.

Getting there
Reach Tangkoko by land or sea from Manado
Buses depart hourly from Paal II bus terminal for Bitung and Girian (IDR 5,000). At Girian change to mikrolet or open-backed jeep (IDR 5,000) to the village of Batuputih on the western boundary of the reserve.

Cars may be chartered from hotels, dive resorts or travel agencies, Barracuda Dive Resort in Molas provides a car and driver for $45 for a 1-way drop; more if you want the car to wait overnight. The travel agents on Jl Sam Ratulangi do packages to Tangkoko for about $50 a day.

By sea a more scenic way to visit Tangkoko/Dua Saudara is by boat but this is only advisable from June to September when seas are calm. Boats can be chartered from Murex and Barracuda dive resorts ($60 or more) or from Bitung Port ($38 but it is best to negotiate).

Accommodation/dining
There are few losmen/homestay in the village of Batuputih. All homestays charge $8-10 a night, including 3 spicy meals.

General information
The best time to visit is May-October, it is hottest and most crowded in July and August. Plan on spending at least 2 full days in the reserve; one to climb to the top of Mt Tangkoko and 1 to explore the lowland forest and forest edges.

No permit is required, but you must report to PHPA at the reserve entrance. The entrance fee costs IDR 2,000 a day, and you have to hire one guide ($5-8 per day) per group of 4 visitors (tips appreciated).
There are many interesting walks in the Nature Reserve. These include a 6-km trail from the beach to the cloud forest on the rim of Tangkoko volcano. The trail climbs 1,100 m through all major habitats and provides opportunities to glimpse montane birds such as Fiery-browed Myna, Sulawesi Woodpecker, Sulawesi Drongo and Scaly-breasted Kingfisher. Pack a lunch and spend a full day on this trail.

There is a 4-km loop trail on gentle slopes that passes through secondary and primary forest. Along this trail are fruiting strangle figs that attract mynas, fruit doves and other fruit eating birds. The trail passes through several well known Red-knobbed Hornbill nest areas and kingfisher and chestnut-backed Thrush territories.

A 12-km trail parallels the beach although only the first 4 km are well maintained. The trail passes through grasslands, a good area for bee-eaters, White-shouldered Trillers and coucals; beach forest, where one frequently spots Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove, Sulawesi Black Pigeon and several kingfisher species; and secondary and primary forest, where White-bellied sea-eagles and Sulawesi Hawk-eagles are known to nest.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Lore Lindu National Park

Lore Lindu National Park
The 200,000 ha Lore Lindu National Park in the north of central Sulawesi is one of Asia’s premier birding destinations-it is possible to see 80% of sulawesi’s 96 endemic bird species in a visit of 4-5 days. The park covers the Lindu, Besoa, Bada and Napu valleys-famous for their ancient megaliths-and the mountain ridges in between. Birders tend to head for the higher ground where most of the endemics are found, and the most popular base is Kamarora at the northern edge of the park on the road to the Napu Velley. For those wishing to really get to know the park, an extensive system of trails links the different valleys, although bird densities seem lower in the southern parts of the park.

Key species
Many of Sulawesi’s endemics can be seen at Tangkoko and dumoga Bone; what sets Lore Lindu apart is the easy access to high altitude forests which have a distinct set of endemics. Birds like: Malia, Sulphur-bellied, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed Whistlers, White-eyed Myza, Streak-headed Darkeye and Fiery-browed Myna.

Other wildlife
Both species of Sulawesi’s endemic dwarf buffalo, or anoa. Black Macaques and babirusa.

Getting there
Access to Lore Lindu is via Palu, the provincial capital of Central Sulawesi. You can get to the park by bus (from the main bus station-Masomba market terminal), or yoou can organize a 4-wheel drive vehicle and driver from one of the tourist agents in Palu.

Both have their disadvantages. If you go by bus, do not be surprised if the journey takes most of a day, as this road is probably the worst in the southern hemisphere. A 4WD vehicle, on the other hand, can be expensive. A good compromise is to hire transport for a day to take you to the pass at the Anaso turn-off (as high as a vehicle can go) and, after the day’s birding, ask the driver to drop you at Kamarora on the way back. If you choose this option, start early from Palu, or you will get to the top too late for the early birds. Allow at least 4 hrs for this trip.

General Information
If trekking between the areas below, a guide is advised as trails are poorly way-marked. Horses or porters can be hired to carry packs. There are PHPA posts in most villages, the staff of which are welcoming to guests provided that you have park entry permits from the SKSDA office in Palu.

To get to the Napu Valley, take the direct public bus from Palu and stay at the losmen with restaurant; for the Bada valley (Gintu), there is a MAF flight from Poso, then take a jeep to the homestays. Tentena (Poso) is a 2-day walk from Gimpu. To go to Saluki, take the direct bus from Palu, and walk one hour to the Maleo watchtowers. Toro is connected to Palu by a daily direct bus and you can stay at the PHPA post there. The Lindu Valley is accessible via public bus from Palu to Sidaunta; (where you can stay at the homestay at the PHPA post) then continue by horse or foot. Kamarora is the place to base yourself when visiting the park.

Accommodation/dining
The very basic PHPA bungalows in Kamarora can accommodate up to 15 people; book in advance at PHPA Palu office, Jl Parman 9, no restaurant; bring your own food from Palu and make arrangements with the ranger’s wife to cook it.

General Information
It is essential to get a permit for the park. Obtain it from the BKSDA office at JL Mohammed Yamin (road known also as “jalur dua”) before leaving Palu. Costs IDR 5,000.

Birdwatching in Lake Tempe (Sulawesi)

Lake Tempe

This shallow complex of lakes, with its intensive fishing industry, is a haven for large numbers of many waterbird species, especially in the man-made structures of floating vegetation (bungka) unique to this area. Halfway between the provincial capital of Ujung Pandang and crowd-pulling Tana Toraja, Tempe lies in the Buginese heartland and at the centre of the Sulawesi silk-weaving industry. While it is a must for the keen birder, everyone will find a half-day trip to the lakes delightful, as seeing birds is nowhere easier.

Key species

Seasonally (usually Nov-Jan) up to 5,000+ Glossy Ibis, 10,000+ Garganey and tens of thousands of reed-warblers, Little Grebe, Little Pied Cormorant, Darter, Purple and Common Moorhens, Comb-crested Jacana, Yellow, Cinnamon and Black Bitterns, Black crowned and Nankeen Night-herons, and Purple Heron, occasionally Milky Stork and Osprey.

Other Wildlife

Soa-soa, or sail-fin Lizard, several species of Monitor Lizard, and Sulawesi’s only aquatic tortoise, Asian Box Turtle.

Getting there

By car the 220-km journey from Ujung Pandang to Sengkang takes about 4 hrs, there are two major routes. The quicker is the coastal road which snakes along a narrow coastal plain to Pare-pare (2.5 hrs), from where you follow the major road to Tana Toraja that runs north of the lakes. After about an hour you reach a major junction; here you turn south to Sengkang (another 30 min).

A slower but more interesting alternative is via Camba. From Ujung Pandang follow the coastal road north to Maros (35 km), then head due east towards the wonderful karst landscape of Bantimurung (waterfalls and butterflies). At Bantimurung follow the road in the direction of Camba-it winds very slowly up the limestone escarpment, through a nature park (Camba) and offers to Soppeng (or Watansoppeng) is not as busy as the coastal road, taking about 2.5 hours; Soppeng-Sengkang is another 30 min.

By bus alternatively, take a public; bus to Pare-pare (2-3 hrs) and from there a bus to Sengkang (another 1.5 haours). About $2,50.

Once in Sengkang it is easy to rent an outbond-powered Buginese longboat plus crew of two. Negotiate a price (usually per hr or half day, depending on what you want) beforehand- a half day will cost about $17-25, depending on your bargaining skills and the mood of your boatman. Best place to rent a boat is along the Walanae river, north of downtown Sengkang.

General information

Best time to visit is Oct-Jan, when water levels are low. The fishing season peaks then, and it coincides with the arrival of migratory waterbirds such as Glossy Ibis and Garganey. As usual, early morning and late afternoon are best to trips on the lakes, not only because of the birds but because the heat of the sun can be a torment while sitting in a boat (none has a roof). Bring lots of water, sun cream and an umbrella (for sun and rain). Depending on what you want to see, you can spend 2-3 hrs on a quick look at the best spots, or 2-3 days if you want to tour all there lakes and see wildlife along the interconnecting streams. Guides are not necessary if water levels are high, but if they are low you will not find the channels and it is generally wise to travel with a boatman. It is also useful that local boatman know the rules regarding fishing nets and how to avoid snagging them. Be aware that the bungka are strictly off limits.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Sulawesi Peninsula

Birdwatching in Sulawesi

Ujung Pandang

Ujung Pandang is the capital and administrative centre of the province of south Sulawesi. It is the main point of entry for the south of the island and the base for a trip to Lake Tempe and the very popular Tana Toraja area. Ujung Pandang’s hasanuddin (international) airport, the gateway to eastern Indonesia, is well connected to the rest of the archipelago.

Getting there

By air the airport is 25 km north of town on the road to Maros, 30 min’s drive. The half hour taxi ride into town costs $6 or $8 AC, or you can walk 500 m to the main road and catch a bemo for $1 including luggage.

By sea five pelni ships call at Ujung pandang on fixed schedules of 14 days.

By bus there is a daily bus service to and from all the major towns in South Sulawesi, however getting out of Ujung Pandang can be a hassle. Coaches and minibuses to other towns leave from terminal Pasar Daya at km 15. allow at least a half hor for the journey. First take a bemo (IDR 1,000) or becak (IDR 2,000-IDR 4,000) to Sentral (the central bemo terminus) and from there a second bemo to Panaikan. From here, buses leave regularly throughout the day up to 7 pm.

Accommodation/Dining

Ujung Pandang is expensive by Indonesian standars. At the lower end of the scale there are many cheap penginapan around the part area, but these are not recommended. Most of the larger hotels add 21% service and tax; smaller ones may add 10%.

The main attraction of eating out in Ujung Pandang is the seafood: huge shrimps and lobsters, dark-skinned fish with delicate white flesh, and giant, jucy crabs. There is an enormous range of restaurants as wel as several hundred metres of warung along the seafront.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in the Mahakam (Kalimantan)

The Mahakam

Visitors can choose from several travel options: either join one of the many organized tours, which range from 2-day up to 3-week trips, or travel upriver independently by local transportation. Some stretches can be traveled by bus or car, but most of your time will be spent on one of the large boats that ply the river between Samarinda and Long Bangun. If you are in a hurry or want to visit remoter parts, it best to charter a motorized canoe (ketinting). Flying directly to the upper Mahakam above Long Bangun by small airplane is another option.

Key species

White-shouldered Ibis upriver of Long Iram; Storm’s Stork possible along the Ratah tributary. Lesser and Grey-headed Fish Eagles along the river. Wide variety of river and waterbirds.

Other wildlife

Proboscis Monkey, Irrawaddy Dolphin, Estuarine and False Gharial Crocodiles, Monitor Lizards, freshwater turtles and dolphins.

Getting there

By boat from Samarinda the most common way to travel inland is on ordinary passenger boats leaving from the ferry landing (Pelabuhan Ferry) past the bridge, on the outskirts of town. Speedboats for 4-6 passengers can be chartered from the Sapulidi Company. All the boats heading upriver stop at Tenggarong, but many also stop at many other places beforehand, stretching the 45 km journey to Tenggarong leave from the Pasar Pagi dock (2-3 hrs, 50 cent) and you can get there even faster on chartered speedboat, good for 4-6 passengers (1 hr each way, $50 round trip).

Samarinda to Long Bagun takes 3 days and 2 nights in good conditions. Going upriver, boats spend a night at Data Bilang to avoid running into logs or sandbanks in the dark. $12. from Long Bagun to the Upper Mahakam past the rapids by chartered Longboat: $750, or share one as far as Tiong Bu’u or Long Apari: $40. tiong Bu’u back to Long Bagun $15-20.

If you want to go past the rapids, you need to come back by light plane. Try to get a seat on a MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship) plane.

By bus to Kota Bangun: every 30 min from Jl Untung Surapati terminal 2.5 hrs/$1.50.

By car from Melak to Tering (1hr); $2.50.

By air DAS flies on Tuesday and Thursdays to Datah Dawai, above the rapids; $29, max 5 passengers, flights are regularly cancelled because of the poor condition of the Datah Dawai airstrip.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Tanjung Puting Reserve

Tanjung Putting Reserve

Tanjung Putting reserve in Central Kalimantan province covers 3,040 sq km of low-lying terrain characterized by blackwater rivers that flow into the Java Sea. The river mouths are bordered with nipa palm and mangrove swamps. In the remote centre of the reserve are “bird lakes”, where thousands of herons and cormorants nest. There are seasonally in undated peat swamp forests, and heath forest on the drier ground. Most visitors come to see the orphaned Orang-utans at Camp Leakey, where there is a 200-m boardwalk and an extensive trail system. Over 220 species of bird have been recorded, including several species of hornbill and pheasant. The park is best explored by boat from the coastal town of Kumai.

Key species

Excellent range of rainforest and wetland species including; Storm’s Stork, Blyth’s Hawk-eagle, Leuser and grey-headed Fish-eagles, Bulwer’s Pheasant, Bay Owl, 7 species of hornbill, 10 species of woodpecker, Blue-headed Pitta, Black-and-white Bulbul and Rufous-tailed Shama.

Other wildlife

Forty species of mammal including Western Tarsier, Proboscis Monkey, Agile Gibbon and Clouded Leopard.

Getting there

All inclusive tours can be organized through Indonesia Expeditions, Jakarta. A visit to the park starts at Pangkalanbun. There are daily flights from Jakarta, Pontianak, and Banjarmasin. Taxis can be chartered from the airport to the coastal town of Kumai ($20). Alternatively, take a colt from the market in nearby Sungai Arot to Kumai (IDR 5,000, 30 min). Pelni ships from Semarang and Surabaya call at Kumai every 2 weeks.

General information

A surat jalan for the park is required from the police office in Pangkalanbun (you will need a photocopy of the photo-page of your passport and visa stamp). This must be handed to the PHPA office on Jl Idris (the coast road) in Kumai to get a park entrance permit. The PHPA office is open 8.00 am to 2.00 pm except Friday (8.00-11.00 am) and Saturday (8.00-12.00 am). Closed Sunday. The paperwork sometimes takes an hour. Local hotels will arrange the permit for a nominal charge. Entrance fee to the park is IDR 2,500 and there is a $1-2 boat toll.

The PHPA office can arrange excursions; PHPA guide rate is IDR 25,000 per day. There are also numerous travel agents in Kumai.

Rivers provide the major travel routes into the park. The most economical means is to take the daily public water taxi from Kumai upstream to Aspai (IDR 15,000). Most visitors charter a longboat or kelotok. Hire charges are $35-40 per day.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Kutai National Park

Kalimantan

Samarinda, the capital of East Kalimantan, is the main point of embarkation for boats up the Mahakam river and the starting point for trips to Kutai National Park. Samarinda is about 115 km north of Balikpapan, and 60 km from the sea upriver on the Mahakam.

Kutai National Park

One of Indonesia’s first and largest reserves, Kutai offers excellent birding opportunities for twitchers, adventurers and the leisure tourist alike. More than 236 bird species have been recorded for the park.

Key species

Rufous-bellied Eagle, Wallace’s Hawk-eagle, Crested Partridge, Crested Fireback, Great Argus, Large Green Pigeon, Large Frogmouth, seven species of Horbill (notably Wrinkled), blue-headed Pitta, Garnet Pitta, Bornean Wren-babbler, Bornean Bristlehead, Dusky Munia.

Other wildlife

Proboscis Monkeys, Barking and Sambar Deer, Mouse-deer, Banteng, Clouded Leopard, near Mentoko, you might see wild Orang-utan, gibbons and leaf monkeys.

Getting there

Teluk Kaba from Samarinda take a taxi/kijang (2-2.5 hours, $2.50) or bus (3 hrs, $2) to Bontang. Hire a boat from Bontang (Tanjung Limau Harbour) to Teluk Kaba (1.5-2 hrs, $15).

Mentoko from Samarinda; take a bus all the way to Sangatta (4 hrs, $10). From Bontang; drive or take a bus north direct to Sangatta (about 2 hrs). from Teluk Kaba; walk 2-3 km back to the main road and take a bus to Sangatta (about 1 hr if the road is good). At sangatta; a ketinting motor boat can be chartered upriver to Mentoko (2.5 hrs, $350. a rather more expensive way to travel is to take a boat all the way from Tanjung Limau to mentoko (10 hrs for $50).

General information

The driest period is April to October. Before entering the park, visitors should report to the National Park offices (Kantor Taman Nasional Kutai, Jl Mulawarman 236, Tromolpos 1, Bontang 75283, Kalimantan Timur). The most accessible sites are Teluk Kaba and Mentoko, but hiking and camping are esy as the terrain is relatively flat. There is a 30-km jungle trail from Pinang (near Sangatta village) to mentoko, and other trails lead from Teluk Kaba. Leeches are abundant at Mentoko during the rainy months; antileech socks are most effective, and better than repellents.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in The Southern Circuit (Sumatra)

The southern Circuit

A daily ferry to Kampung leaves the quay at Kota Agung between 10.00 and 12.00 am. The crossing takes 4-6 hrs, depending how loaded the boat is. Fare IDR 15,000. The transfer from the ferry to shore is by canoe through exhilarating surf. Make sure your equipment is in waterproof bags!

Buy you supplies in Kota Agung. There is a small PHPA post in Tampang, and visitors stay the night with Pak Salamat next door ($ 3,5/IDR 30,000 per peson). PHPA will arrange porters if you need them ($5/IDR 50,000 a day per person). Pak Hasim knows the trails well. From Tampang it is a 6-hr birding walk (2-hr straight trek) to a good shelter at Duku Banyak. 

The forest here is excellent and it would be worth staying two nights. From Duku Banyak it is a 4-hr trek (but make a day of it) to the coast at Belimbing, site of a WW2 field and a light-house. An ecotourism resort is being developed here by PT Nusantara (Rudy Schultz), next to the PHPA post. They are said to be welcoming to trekkers and you can stay here, in the PHPA post or camp. During bird migration months, especially, this area would be worth a couple of days.

A recommended side trip from Belimbing is the 3-hr trek north to the swiftlet caves at Way Paya. The trail follows the coast for 2 hrs before heading inland into the hills. It passes through excellent forest.

PT Nusantara has constructed a track along the south coast between Belimbing and Tampang. It passes through a mosaic of savannah and forest, and the birding is excellent. Take two days and camp at Lake Minjukut, reached after 5-6 hrs’ walking. The next day is another 4-5 hr walk to Tambang Mas on the edge of the park. From here you can hire a boat for $15/IDR 150,000 to take you round to Tambang, find an ojek or walk the last 12 km back to Tampang.

Sukaraja

This is an area of hilly forest (still below 500 m) in the centre of the park. The birding is excellent. The base is the PHPA’s Pos Sukaraja, close to the Kota Agung-Benkunat road, which bisects the park. The national park office can arrange a jeep to take you up here for $25-30. the turning to the Sukaraja post is on the right, just after you pass the national park boundary sign. It is a 20-min walk from the road through coffee plantatins. Give at least IDR 25,000 for staying at the post. The good forest starts 30 min to the west.

Birdwatching in Bukit Barisan National Park

Bukit Barisan National Park

This 356,800-ha park covers the southern tip of the Barisan range and just out as a spur into the Sunda Strait. It could act as a funned for migratory passerines and raptors between August and October but this has never been checked out; the mosaic of scrub, forest and grassland around Bimbing looks particularly promising.

The whole park is below 700 m, making it an excellent place to see lowland forest specialities, and it boasts spectacular coastal scenery. The best birding excursion is the 4-day circular trek from Tambung across the southern tip to Belimbing, returning along a new track, which follows the coast. There is an alternative return route from Belimbing via the caves at Way Paya, which could be good.

In the northern part of the park there is a trail that leads into excellent forest and across the peninsula from the PHPA post at Sukaraja.

Key species

Beach Thick-knee, Great Argus, Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Pied and green Imperial Pigeons, Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot, Raffles Malkoha, Blue-banded Kingfisher, Rhinoceros Hornbill, Olive-backed Woodpecker, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Rail Babblers, Purple-naped Sunbird, Black Magpie.

Getting there

The town to head for is Kota Agung. There are daily buses from Bandar Lampung; the journey time is approximately 4 hrs and the fare IDR 7,500. if you fly to Bandar Lampung, taxis at the airport will drive you to Kota Agung for $40-45.

General Information

The national Park office is at Jl Raya Terbaya, this is 1.5 km before downtown Kota Agung on the main road from Lampung. Park entrance fee is IDR 7,500. You are obliged to take a park guide to enter the park ($10/IDR 90,000 per day)

source: Birding Indonesia. periplus Publishing. Singapore