Tamoko
Take the bus from Tahunan to Tamoko (5 hrs, IDR 15,000 ). There are no losmen in Tamoko, so report to the kepala Desa (village head) and ask him to find you somewhere to stay. From the market in Tamoko take another bus to Kentuhang (1 hr; IDR 3,000). Get off at the end of the road, where it branches into two unsurfaced tracks that lead up to the crater rim. Take either track and climb steeply. After 2-3 hrs of secondary scrub the tracks enter forest. Red-and-Blue Lory and Caerulean Paradise-flycatcher have not been seen here yet, but Sangihe Hanging-parrot and Elegant Sunbird are easy, as are Blue-backed Parrot, Blue-tailed Imperial Pigeon, Hooded Pitta, Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, Pied Cuckoo-shrike and Black-fronted White-eye.
Birdwatching in Sangihe Island (Sulawesi)
Sangihe Island
Sangihe is the largest of a group of 77 islands (47 inhabited) strewn between North Sulawesi and the Philippines. Sangihe is almost totally covered in mixed plantations but the island’s four endemic species, Red-and-Blue Lory, Sangihe Hanging-parrot, Elegant Sunbird and Caerulean Paradise-flycatcher, can be found in forest remnants surviving on two of the island’s volcanoes, the active Mt Awu in the north and Tamako in the south-west.
Caerulean Paradise Flycatcher
www.biologicaldiversity.org
The paradise-flycatcher was though to be extinct until a british expedition made a brief sighting of one on Mt Awu in 1995.
Getting there
Passenger ferries leave the harbour every other evening at 6.00 pm. Check on the blackboard at the harbour for sailing dates. Fare is $5 for the 12-hr journey; cabins can be rented from the crew for $7. bemos meet the ferry to transport you to the other end of town, where accommodation is concentrated.
Mount Awu
From the terminal take the bus to Talawid Atas (2-3 hrs, IDR 15,000). Get off at the school, walk right along the road and pass a junction after 50 m. after a further 50 m the trail upwards through plantations for 1 hr. it climbs a ridge with forest in the valley on either side and plantations along the ridge top. This trail continues for 3-4 hrs but does not enter forest; however, you can see Sangihe Hanging-parrot and Red-and-Blue Lory flying overhead and Elegant Sunbird in mixed flocks in the plantation trees. This is where the 1995 sighting of Caerulean paradise-flycatcher was made.
source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Sangihe is the largest of a group of 77 islands (47 inhabited) strewn between North Sulawesi and the Philippines. Sangihe is almost totally covered in mixed plantations but the island’s four endemic species, Red-and-Blue Lory, Sangihe Hanging-parrot, Elegant Sunbird and Caerulean Paradise-flycatcher, can be found in forest remnants surviving on two of the island’s volcanoes, the active Mt Awu in the north and Tamako in the south-west.
Caerulean Paradise Flycatcherwww.biologicaldiversity.org
Getting there
Passenger ferries leave the harbour every other evening at 6.00 pm. Check on the blackboard at the harbour for sailing dates. Fare is $5 for the 12-hr journey; cabins can be rented from the crew for $7. bemos meet the ferry to transport you to the other end of town, where accommodation is concentrated.
Mount Awu
From the terminal take the bus to Talawid Atas (2-3 hrs, IDR 15,000). Get off at the school, walk right along the road and pass a junction after 50 m. after a further 50 m the trail upwards through plantations for 1 hr. it climbs a ridge with forest in the valley on either side and plantations along the ridge top. This trail continues for 3-4 hrs but does not enter forest; however, you can see Sangihe Hanging-parrot and Red-and-Blue Lory flying overhead and Elegant Sunbird in mixed flocks in the plantation trees. This is where the 1995 sighting of Caerulean paradise-flycatcher was made.
source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Birdwatching in Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park
Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park
The Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park, formerly Dumoga Bone, is one of the two biggest terrestrial national parks of Sulawesi encompassing 300,000 ha of rainforest from 50-2,000 m above sea level. Almost all of Sulawesi’s 75 endemic species occur in the park.
Endemic birds that are common and conspicuous in the park include: Sulawesi Serpen-eagle, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Isabelline Waterhen, Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Golden-mantled Raquet-tail, Fiery-billed Malkoha, Great-billed Kingfisher, Red-knobbed Hornbill, Ashy Woodpecker, Pied Cockoo-shrike, Sulawesi Babbler, Finch-biled and White-necked Mynas, Yellow-sided and grey-sided Flowerpeckers. Others are more locally distributed but still relatively easy to observe, like Maleo and Purple-winged Roller.
Other Wildlife
Crested Black Macaque, Wild Bear and spectral Tarsier can be found around the guest-house in Duloduo. Try the veranda of the guest house in the evening with the flights on for bats and huge beetles and butterflies,. In the forest keep an eye out for bear and Dwarf Cuscus.
Getting there
The village of Duloduo, some 2 km from the park headquarters can be reached directly by bus from the Malalayang bus station in southwest manado. If requested the bus might stop at Koasinggolan dam, just behind Duloduo, from which it is less then 1 km to the offices (cross the small dam left and continue on this road). The Manado-Dulodou trip takes about 6 to 7 hours and costs about IDR 25,000.
Another entrance of the park with a good access to the forest is Toraut. Small buses (oplets) go from Duloduo to Toraut (12 km; IDR 5,000).
Accommodation/dining
The headquarters in Dulodou include a guest-house with two rooms for two people each. Food is available on request. One night including three meals costs about IDR 90,000. Though more remote, the Toraut area offers sleeping facilities for quite large numbers.
General Information
Visitors have to register at the Dulodou or Toraut offices. A small fee has to be paid for insurances each day (about IDR 5,000).
Entering the forest is allowed only with a park guide, none of whom speak any English. The guide fee is around IDR 50,000 a day. A good birding trip from Dulodou is the track to the Matayangan village and Maleo nesting ground. This trip starts from the guest-house in Dulodou and takes about 8 hours, including transportation to Dulodoou from Matayangan village.
A nice trip in the Dumoga valley is a visit to the Maleo nesting ground of Tambun. Arrange transportation and guide the day before, leave early to the village of Imandi (“market with bats”) and go inland to Mokintop village, total costs between IDR 50,000-80,000). Another possibility is leaving the night before and staying in the small guest-house of Imandi (50 m next to the post office).
Less than two km before Mokintop is the Tambun Maleo nesting ground. Maleos are around between October and May. Be there early to see the birds. In Mokintop village Purple-winged Roller are common.
The road from Imandi to Mokinto gives good opportunities for rails, herons and raptors, while the Dumoga valley in the west, which is not part of the park, is rich in herons, rails and waders.
Rainfall is generally evenly distributed throughout the year with relative wet periods from November to January and from March to May and dry spells from June to Octaober and in February, although local patterns of rainfall show great differences.
An excellent, full-colour guidebook with some superb photographs, north Sulawesi; a Natural History Guide, by Dr Margaret Kinnaird, is available from the wallacea Development Institute.
source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
The Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park, formerly Dumoga Bone, is one of the two biggest terrestrial national parks of Sulawesi encompassing 300,000 ha of rainforest from 50-2,000 m above sea level. Almost all of Sulawesi’s 75 endemic species occur in the park.
Endemic birds that are common and conspicuous in the park include: Sulawesi Serpen-eagle, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Isabelline Waterhen, Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Golden-mantled Raquet-tail, Fiery-billed Malkoha, Great-billed Kingfisher, Red-knobbed Hornbill, Ashy Woodpecker, Pied Cockoo-shrike, Sulawesi Babbler, Finch-biled and White-necked Mynas, Yellow-sided and grey-sided Flowerpeckers. Others are more locally distributed but still relatively easy to observe, like Maleo and Purple-winged Roller.
Other Wildlife
Crested Black Macaque, Wild Bear and spectral Tarsier can be found around the guest-house in Duloduo. Try the veranda of the guest house in the evening with the flights on for bats and huge beetles and butterflies,. In the forest keep an eye out for bear and Dwarf Cuscus.
Getting there
The village of Duloduo, some 2 km from the park headquarters can be reached directly by bus from the Malalayang bus station in southwest manado. If requested the bus might stop at Koasinggolan dam, just behind Duloduo, from which it is less then 1 km to the offices (cross the small dam left and continue on this road). The Manado-Dulodou trip takes about 6 to 7 hours and costs about IDR 25,000.
Another entrance of the park with a good access to the forest is Toraut. Small buses (oplets) go from Duloduo to Toraut (12 km; IDR 5,000).
Accommodation/dining
The headquarters in Dulodou include a guest-house with two rooms for two people each. Food is available on request. One night including three meals costs about IDR 90,000. Though more remote, the Toraut area offers sleeping facilities for quite large numbers.
General Information
Visitors have to register at the Dulodou or Toraut offices. A small fee has to be paid for insurances each day (about IDR 5,000).
Entering the forest is allowed only with a park guide, none of whom speak any English. The guide fee is around IDR 50,000 a day. A good birding trip from Dulodou is the track to the Matayangan village and Maleo nesting ground. This trip starts from the guest-house in Dulodou and takes about 8 hours, including transportation to Dulodoou from Matayangan village.
A nice trip in the Dumoga valley is a visit to the Maleo nesting ground of Tambun. Arrange transportation and guide the day before, leave early to the village of Imandi (“market with bats”) and go inland to Mokintop village, total costs between IDR 50,000-80,000). Another possibility is leaving the night before and staying in the small guest-house of Imandi (50 m next to the post office).
Less than two km before Mokintop is the Tambun Maleo nesting ground. Maleos are around between October and May. Be there early to see the birds. In Mokintop village Purple-winged Roller are common.
The road from Imandi to Mokinto gives good opportunities for rails, herons and raptors, while the Dumoga valley in the west, which is not part of the park, is rich in herons, rails and waders.
Rainfall is generally evenly distributed throughout the year with relative wet periods from November to January and from March to May and dry spells from June to Octaober and in February, although local patterns of rainfall show great differences.
An excellent, full-colour guidebook with some superb photographs, north Sulawesi; a Natural History Guide, by Dr Margaret Kinnaird, is available from the wallacea Development Institute.
source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Birdwatching in Tangkoko/Dua Saudara Nature Reserve
Tangkoko/Dua saudara Nature Reserve
Three forested volcanoes form the core of this 8,800 ha reserve on the northernmost tip of Sulawesi. An open forest understorey makes for excellent viewing conditions at all levels in the canopy and on the ground, and an abundance of figs and other fruit trees results in high densities of fruit-eating birds and mammals. It is possible to bird coral flats, lowland forests and cloud forest on volcanic summits all in a day, but you will get more out of the trip if you allow at least 2 days.
Key species
Other Wildlife
Spectral Tarsier, a tiny,, nocturnal primate; Bear Cuscus, a pouched mammal related to the kangaroo, that moves slowly through the canopy aided by a prehensile tail; black macaques.
Getting there
Reach Tangkoko by land or sea from Manado
Buses depart hourly from Paal II bus terminal for Bitung and Girian (IDR 5,000). At Girian change to mikrolet or open-backed jeep (IDR 5,000) to the village of Batuputih on the western boundary of the reserve.
Cars may be chartered from hotels, dive resorts or travel agencies, Barracuda Dive Resort in Molas provides a car and driver for $45 for a 1-way drop; more if you want the car to wait overnight. The travel agents on Jl Sam Ratulangi do packages to Tangkoko for about $50 a day.
By sea a more scenic way to visit Tangkoko/Dua Saudara is by boat but this is only advisable from June to September when seas are calm. Boats can be chartered from Murex and Barracuda dive resorts ($60 or more) or from Bitung Port ($38 but it is best to negotiate).
Accommodation/dining
There are few losmen/homestay in the village of Batuputih. All homestays charge $8-10 a night, including 3 spicy meals.
General information
The best time to visit is May-October, it is hottest and most crowded in July and August. Plan on spending at least 2 full days in the reserve; one to climb to the top of Mt Tangkoko and 1 to explore the lowland forest and forest edges.
No permit is required, but you must report to PHPA at the reserve entrance. The entrance fee costs IDR 2,000 a day, and you have to hire one guide ($5-8 per day) per group of 4 visitors (tips appreciated).
There are many interesting walks in the Nature Reserve. These include a 6-km trail from the beach to the cloud forest on the rim of Tangkoko volcano. The trail climbs 1,100 m through all major habitats and provides opportunities to glimpse montane birds such as Fiery-browed Myna, Sulawesi Woodpecker, Sulawesi Drongo and Scaly-breasted Kingfisher. Pack a lunch and spend a full day on this trail.
There is a 4-km loop trail on gentle slopes that passes through secondary and primary forest. Along this trail are fruiting strangle figs that attract mynas, fruit doves and other fruit eating birds. The trail passes through several well known Red-knobbed Hornbill nest areas and kingfisher and chestnut-backed Thrush territories.
A 12-km trail parallels the beach although only the first 4 km are well maintained. The trail passes through grasslands, a good area for bee-eaters, White-shouldered Trillers and coucals; beach forest, where one frequently spots Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove, Sulawesi Black Pigeon and several kingfisher species; and secondary and primary forest, where White-bellied sea-eagles and Sulawesi Hawk-eagles are known to nest.
taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Birdwatching in Lore Lindu National Park
Lore Lindu National Park
The 200,000 ha Lore Lindu National Park in the north of central Sulawesi is one of Asia’s premier birding destinations-it is possible to see 80% of sulawesi’s 96 endemic bird species in a visit of 4-5 days. The park covers the Lindu, Besoa, Bada and Napu valleys-famous for their ancient megaliths-and the mountain ridges in between. Birders tend to head for the higher ground where most of the endemics are found, and the most popular base is Kamarora at the northern edge of the park on the road to the Napu Velley. For those wishing to really get to know the park, an extensive system of trails links the different valleys, although bird densities seem lower in the southern parts of the park.
Key species
Many of Sulawesi’s endemics can be seen at Tangkoko and dumoga Bone; what sets Lore Lindu apart is the easy access to high altitude forests which have a distinct set of endemics. Birds like: Malia, Sulphur-bellied, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed Whistlers, White-eyed Myza, Streak-headed Darkeye and Fiery-browed Myna.
Other wildlife
Both species of Sulawesi’s endemic dwarf buffalo, or anoa. Black Macaques and babirusa.
Getting there
Access to Lore Lindu is via Palu, the provincial capital of Central Sulawesi. You can get to the park by bus (from the main bus station-Masomba market terminal), or yoou can organize a 4-wheel drive vehicle and driver from one of the tourist agents in Palu.
Both have their disadvantages. If you go by bus, do not be surprised if the journey takes most of a day, as this road is probably the worst in the southern hemisphere. A 4WD vehicle, on the other hand, can be expensive. A good compromise is to hire transport for a day to take you to the pass at the Anaso turn-off (as high as a vehicle can go) and, after the day’s birding, ask the driver to drop you at Kamarora on the way back. If you choose this option, start early from Palu, or you will get to the top too late for the early birds. Allow at least 4 hrs for this trip.
General Information
If trekking between the areas below, a guide is advised as trails are poorly way-marked. Horses or porters can be hired to carry packs. There are PHPA posts in most villages, the staff of which are welcoming to guests provided that you have park entry permits from the SKSDA office in Palu.
To get to the Napu Valley, take the direct public bus from Palu and stay at the losmen with restaurant; for the Bada valley (Gintu), there is a MAF flight from Poso, then take a jeep to the homestays. Tentena (Poso) is a 2-day walk from Gimpu. To go to Saluki, take the direct bus from Palu, and walk one hour to the Maleo watchtowers. Toro is connected to Palu by a daily direct bus and you can stay at the PHPA post there. The Lindu Valley is accessible via public bus from Palu to Sidaunta; (where you can stay at the homestay at the PHPA post) then continue by horse or foot. Kamarora is the place to base yourself when visiting the park.
Accommodation/dining
The very basic PHPA bungalows in Kamarora can accommodate up to 15 people; book in advance at PHPA Palu office, Jl Parman 9, no restaurant; bring your own food from Palu and make arrangements with the ranger’s wife to cook it.
General Information
It is essential to get a permit for the park. Obtain it from the BKSDA office at JL Mohammed Yamin (road known also as “jalur dua”) before leaving Palu. Costs IDR 5,000.
The 200,000 ha Lore Lindu National Park in the north of central Sulawesi is one of Asia’s premier birding destinations-it is possible to see 80% of sulawesi’s 96 endemic bird species in a visit of 4-5 days. The park covers the Lindu, Besoa, Bada and Napu valleys-famous for their ancient megaliths-and the mountain ridges in between. Birders tend to head for the higher ground where most of the endemics are found, and the most popular base is Kamarora at the northern edge of the park on the road to the Napu Velley. For those wishing to really get to know the park, an extensive system of trails links the different valleys, although bird densities seem lower in the southern parts of the park.
Key species
Many of Sulawesi’s endemics can be seen at Tangkoko and dumoga Bone; what sets Lore Lindu apart is the easy access to high altitude forests which have a distinct set of endemics. Birds like: Malia, Sulphur-bellied, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed Whistlers, White-eyed Myza, Streak-headed Darkeye and Fiery-browed Myna.
Other wildlife
Both species of Sulawesi’s endemic dwarf buffalo, or anoa. Black Macaques and babirusa.
Getting there
Access to Lore Lindu is via Palu, the provincial capital of Central Sulawesi. You can get to the park by bus (from the main bus station-Masomba market terminal), or yoou can organize a 4-wheel drive vehicle and driver from one of the tourist agents in Palu.
Both have their disadvantages. If you go by bus, do not be surprised if the journey takes most of a day, as this road is probably the worst in the southern hemisphere. A 4WD vehicle, on the other hand, can be expensive. A good compromise is to hire transport for a day to take you to the pass at the Anaso turn-off (as high as a vehicle can go) and, after the day’s birding, ask the driver to drop you at Kamarora on the way back. If you choose this option, start early from Palu, or you will get to the top too late for the early birds. Allow at least 4 hrs for this trip.
General Information
If trekking between the areas below, a guide is advised as trails are poorly way-marked. Horses or porters can be hired to carry packs. There are PHPA posts in most villages, the staff of which are welcoming to guests provided that you have park entry permits from the SKSDA office in Palu.
To get to the Napu Valley, take the direct public bus from Palu and stay at the losmen with restaurant; for the Bada valley (Gintu), there is a MAF flight from Poso, then take a jeep to the homestays. Tentena (Poso) is a 2-day walk from Gimpu. To go to Saluki, take the direct bus from Palu, and walk one hour to the Maleo watchtowers. Toro is connected to Palu by a daily direct bus and you can stay at the PHPA post there. The Lindu Valley is accessible via public bus from Palu to Sidaunta; (where you can stay at the homestay at the PHPA post) then continue by horse or foot. Kamarora is the place to base yourself when visiting the park.
Accommodation/dining
The very basic PHPA bungalows in Kamarora can accommodate up to 15 people; book in advance at PHPA Palu office, Jl Parman 9, no restaurant; bring your own food from Palu and make arrangements with the ranger’s wife to cook it.
General Information
It is essential to get a permit for the park. Obtain it from the BKSDA office at JL Mohammed Yamin (road known also as “jalur dua”) before leaving Palu. Costs IDR 5,000.
Birdwatching in Lake Tempe (Sulawesi)
This shallow complex of lakes, with its intensive fishing industry, is a haven for large numbers of many waterbird species, especially in the man-made structures of floating vegetation (bungka) unique to this area. Halfway between the provincial capital of Ujung Pandang Tempe Sulawesi silk-weaving industry. While it is a must for the keen birder, everyone will find a half-day trip to the lakes delightful, as seeing birds is nowhere easier.
Key species
Seasonally (usually Nov-Jan) up to 5,000+ Glossy Ibis, 10,000+ Garganey and tens of thousands of reed-warblers, Little Grebe, Little Pied Cormorant, Darter, Purple and Common Moorhens, Comb-crested Jacana, Yellow, Cinnamon and Black Bitterns, Black crowned and Nankeen Night-herons, and Purple Heron, occasionally Milky Stork and Osprey.
Other Wildlife
Soa-soa, or sail-fin Lizard, several species of Monitor Lizard, and Sulawesi ’s only aquatic tortoise, Asian Box Turtle.
Getting there
By car the 220-km journey from Ujung Pandang
A slower but more interesting alternative is via Camba. From Ujung Pandang
By bus alternatively, take a public; bus to Pare-pare (2-3 hrs) and from there a bus to Sengkang (another 1.5 haours). About $2,50.
Once in Sengkang it is easy to rent an outbond-powered Buginese longboat plus crew of two. Negotiate a price (usually per hr or half day, depending on what you want) beforehand- a half day will cost about $17-25, depending on your bargaining skills and the mood of your boatman. Best place to rent a boat is along the Walanae river, north of downtown Sengkang.
General information
Best time to visit is Oct-Jan, when water levels are low. The fishing season peaks then, and it coincides with the arrival of migratory waterbirds such as Glossy Ibis and Garganey. As usual, early morning and late afternoon are best to trips on the lakes, not only because of the birds but because the heat of the sun can be a torment while sitting in a boat (none has a roof). Bring lots of water, sun cream and an umbrella (for sun and rain). Depending on what you want to see, you can spend 2-3 hrs on a quick look at the best spots, or 2-3 days if you want to tour all there lakes and see wildlife along the interconnecting streams. Guides are not necessary if water levels are high, but if they are low you will not find the channels and it is generally wise to travel with a boatman. It is also useful that local boatman know the rules regarding fishing nets and how to avoid snagging them. Be aware that the bungka are strictly off limits.
taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Birdwatching in Sulawesi Peninsula
Birdwatching in Sulawesi
Ujung Pandang
Ujung Pandang is the capital and administrative centre of the province of south Sulawesi. It is the main point of entry for the south of the island and the base for a trip to Lake Tempe and the very popular Tana Toraja area. Ujung Pandang’s hasanuddin (international) airport, the gateway to eastern Indonesia, is well connected to the rest of the archipelago.
Getting there
By air the airport is 25 km north of town on the road to Maros, 30 min’s drive. The half hour taxi ride into town costs $6 or $8 AC, or you can walk 500 m to the main road and catch a bemo for $1 including luggage.
By sea five pelni ships call at Ujung pandang on fixed schedules of 14 days.
By bus there is a daily bus service to and from all the major towns in South Sulawesi, however getting out of Ujung Pandang can be a hassle. Coaches and minibuses to other towns leave from terminal Pasar Daya at km 15. allow at least a half hor for the journey. First take a bemo (IDR 1,000) or becak (IDR 2,000-IDR 4,000) to Sentral (the central bemo terminus) and from there a second bemo to Panaikan. From here, buses leave regularly throughout the day up to 7 pm.
Accommodation/Dining
Ujung Pandang is expensive by Indonesian standars. At the lower end of the scale there are many cheap penginapan around the part area, but these are not recommended. Most of the larger hotels add 21% service and tax; smaller ones may add 10%.
The main attraction of eating out in Ujung Pandang is the seafood: huge shrimps and lobsters, dark-skinned fish with delicate white flesh, and giant, jucy crabs. There is an enormous range of restaurants as wel as several hundred metres of warung along the seafront.
source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Birdwatching in the Mahakam (Kalimantan)
The Mahakam
Visitors can choose from several travel options: either join one of the many organized tours, which range from 2-day up to 3-week trips, or travel upriver independently by local transportation. Some stretches can be traveled by bus or car, but most of your time will be spent on one of the large boats that ply the river between Samarinda and Long Bangun. If you are in a hurry or want to visit remoter parts, it best to charter a motorized canoe (ketinting). Flying directly to the upper Mahakam above Long Bangun by small airplane is another option.
Key species
White-shouldered Ibis upriver of Long Iram; Storm’s Stork possible along the Ratah tributary. Lesser and Grey-headed Fish Eagles along the river. Wide variety of river and waterbirds.
Other wildlife
Proboscis Monkey, Irrawaddy Dolphin, Estuarine and False Gharial Crocodiles, Monitor Lizards, freshwater turtles and dolphins.
Getting there
By boat from Samarinda the most common way to travel inland is on ordinary passenger boats leaving from the ferry landing (Pelabuhan Ferry) past the bridge, on the outskirts of town. Speedboats for 4-6 passengers can be chartered from the Sapulidi Company. All the boats heading upriver stop at Tenggarong, but many also stop at many other places beforehand, stretching the 45 km journey to Tenggarong leave from the Pasar Pagi dock (2-3 hrs, 50 cent) and you can get there even faster on chartered speedboat, good for 4-6 passengers (1 hr each way, $50 round trip).
Samarinda to Long Bagun takes 3 days and 2 nights in good conditions. Going upriver, boats spend a night at Data Bilang to avoid running into logs or sandbanks in the dark. $12. from Long Bagun to the Upper Mahakam past the rapids by chartered Longboat: $750, or share one as far as Tiong Bu’u or Long Apari: $40. tiong Bu’u back to Long Bagun $15-20.
If you want to go past the rapids, you need to come back by light plane. Try to get a seat on a MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship) plane.
By bus to Kota Bangun: every 30 min from Jl Untung Surapati terminal 2.5 hrs/$1.50.
By car from Melak to Tering (1hr); $2.50.
By air DAS flies on Tuesday and Thursdays to Datah Dawai, above the rapids; $29, max 5 passengers, flights are regularly cancelled because of the poor condition of the Datah Dawai airstrip.
taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Birdwatching in Tanjung Puting Reserve
Tanjung Putting Reserve
Tanjung Putting reserve in Central Kalimantan province covers 3,040 sq km of low-lying terrain characterized by blackwater rivers that flow into the Java Sea Camp Leakey Kumai
Key species
Excellent range of rainforest and wetland species including; Storm’s Stork, Blyth’s Hawk-eagle, Leuser and grey-headed Fish-eagles, Bulwer’s Pheasant, Bay Owl, 7 species of hornbill, 10 species of woodpecker, Blue-headed Pitta, Black-and-white Bulbul and Rufous-tailed Shama.
Other wildlife
Forty species of mammal including Western Tarsier, Proboscis Monkey, Agile Gibbon and Clouded Leopard.
Getting there
All inclusive tours can be organized through Indonesia Expeditions, Jakarta Jakarta Pontianak Banjarmasin Kumai Semarang Surabaya
General information
A surat 8.00 am to 2.00 pm except Friday (8.00-11.00 am ) and Saturday (8.00-12.00 am ). Closed Sunday. The paperwork sometimes takes an hour. Local hotels will arrange the permit for a nominal charge. Entrance fee to the park is IDR 2,500 and there is a $1-2 boat toll.
The PHPA office can arrange excursions; PHPA guide rate is IDR 25,000 per day. There are also numerous travel agents in Kumai.
Rivers provide the major travel routes into the park. The most economical means is to take the daily public water taxi from Kumai upstream to Aspai (IDR 15,000). Most visitors charter a longboat or kelotok. Hire charges are $35-40 per day.
source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Birdwatching in Kutai National Park
Samarinda, the capital of East Kalimantan , is the main point of embarkation for boats up the Mahakam river and the starting point for trips to Kutai National Park Balikpapan
One of Indonesia
Key species
Rufous-bellied Eagle, Wallace’s Hawk-eagle, Crested Partridge, Crested Fireback, Great Argus, Large Green Pigeon, Large Frogmouth, seven species of Horbill (notably Wrinkled), blue-headed Pitta, Garnet Pitta, Bornean Wren-babbler, Bornean Bristlehead, Dusky Munia.
Other wildlife
Proboscis Monkeys, Barking and Sambar Deer, Mouse-deer, Banteng, Clouded Leopard, near Mentoko, you might see wild Orang-utan, gibbons and leaf monkeys.
Getting there
Teluk Kaba from Samarinda take a taxi/kijang (2-2.5 hours, $2.50) or bus (3 hrs, $2) to Bontang. Hire a boat from Bontang (Tanjung Limau Harbour
Mentoko from Samarinda; take a bus all the way to Sangatta (4 hrs, $10). From Bontang; drive or take a bus north direct to Sangatta (about 2 hrs). from Teluk Kaba; walk 2-3 km back to the main road and take a bus to Sangatta (about 1 hr if the road is good). At sangatta; a ketinting motor boat can be chartered upriver to Mentoko (2.5 hrs, $350. a rather more expensive way to travel is to take a boat all the way from Tanjung Limau to mentoko (10 hrs for $50).
General information
The driest period is April to October. Before entering the park, visitors should report to the National Park offices (Kantor Taman Nasional Kutai, Jl Mulawarman 236, Tromolpos 1, Bontang 75283, Kalimantan Timur). The most accessible sites are Teluk Kaba and Mentoko, but hiking and camping are esy as the terrain is relatively flat. There is a 30-km jungle trail from Pinang (near Sangatta village) to mentoko, and other trails lead from Teluk Kaba. Leeches are abundant at Mentoko during the rainy months; antileech socks are most effective, and better than repellents.
taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
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