Birdwatching in The Southern Circuit (Sumatra)

The southern Circuit

A daily ferry to Kampung leaves the quay at Kota Agung between 10.00 and 12.00 am. The crossing takes 4-6 hrs, depending how loaded the boat is. Fare IDR 15,000. The transfer from the ferry to shore is by canoe through exhilarating surf. Make sure your equipment is in waterproof bags!

Buy you supplies in Kota Agung. There is a small PHPA post in Tampang, and visitors stay the night with Pak Salamat next door ($ 3,5/IDR 30,000 per peson). PHPA will arrange porters if you need them ($5/IDR 50,000 a day per person). Pak Hasim knows the trails well. From Tampang it is a 6-hr birding walk (2-hr straight trek) to a good shelter at Duku Banyak. 

The forest here is excellent and it would be worth staying two nights. From Duku Banyak it is a 4-hr trek (but make a day of it) to the coast at Belimbing, site of a WW2 field and a light-house. An ecotourism resort is being developed here by PT Nusantara (Rudy Schultz), next to the PHPA post. They are said to be welcoming to trekkers and you can stay here, in the PHPA post or camp. During bird migration months, especially, this area would be worth a couple of days.

A recommended side trip from Belimbing is the 3-hr trek north to the swiftlet caves at Way Paya. The trail follows the coast for 2 hrs before heading inland into the hills. It passes through excellent forest.

PT Nusantara has constructed a track along the south coast between Belimbing and Tampang. It passes through a mosaic of savannah and forest, and the birding is excellent. Take two days and camp at Lake Minjukut, reached after 5-6 hrs’ walking. The next day is another 4-5 hr walk to Tambang Mas on the edge of the park. From here you can hire a boat for $15/IDR 150,000 to take you round to Tambang, find an ojek or walk the last 12 km back to Tampang.

Sukaraja

This is an area of hilly forest (still below 500 m) in the centre of the park. The birding is excellent. The base is the PHPA’s Pos Sukaraja, close to the Kota Agung-Benkunat road, which bisects the park. The national park office can arrange a jeep to take you up here for $25-30. the turning to the Sukaraja post is on the right, just after you pass the national park boundary sign. It is a 20-min walk from the road through coffee plantatins. Give at least IDR 25,000 for staying at the post. The good forest starts 30 min to the west.

Birdwatching in Bukit Barisan National Park

Bukit Barisan National Park

This 356,800-ha park covers the southern tip of the Barisan range and just out as a spur into the Sunda Strait. It could act as a funned for migratory passerines and raptors between August and October but this has never been checked out; the mosaic of scrub, forest and grassland around Bimbing looks particularly promising.

The whole park is below 700 m, making it an excellent place to see lowland forest specialities, and it boasts spectacular coastal scenery. The best birding excursion is the 4-day circular trek from Tambung across the southern tip to Belimbing, returning along a new track, which follows the coast. There is an alternative return route from Belimbing via the caves at Way Paya, which could be good.

In the northern part of the park there is a trail that leads into excellent forest and across the peninsula from the PHPA post at Sukaraja.

Key species

Beach Thick-knee, Great Argus, Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Pied and green Imperial Pigeons, Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot, Raffles Malkoha, Blue-banded Kingfisher, Rhinoceros Hornbill, Olive-backed Woodpecker, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Rail Babblers, Purple-naped Sunbird, Black Magpie.

Getting there

The town to head for is Kota Agung. There are daily buses from Bandar Lampung; the journey time is approximately 4 hrs and the fare IDR 7,500. if you fly to Bandar Lampung, taxis at the airport will drive you to Kota Agung for $40-45.

General Information

The national Park office is at Jl Raya Terbaya, this is 1.5 km before downtown Kota Agung on the main road from Lampung. Park entrance fee is IDR 7,500. You are obliged to take a park guide to enter the park ($10/IDR 90,000 per day)

source: Birding Indonesia. periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Way Kambas National Park (Sumatra)

Bandar Lampung

Bandar Lampung (often called Tanjung Karang) is the capital of Lampung Province. It is easily accessible from Jakarta, making excarsions to Way Kambas and Bukit Barisan National Park quite feasible for visitors to West Java.

Way Kambas National Park

Way Kambas, on the east coast of Sumatra’s Lampung Province, is one of Indonesia’s best known wildlife reserves. Tigers still roam the reserve, as do large herds of elephant. For the bird-watcher, the way Kanan area is much preferred to the more generally visited Way Kambas, with its elephant training centre. The trails and canoe trips offer the opportunity to see a wide range of lowland forest birds and the possibility of seeing great rarities such as White-winged Duck and Storm’s Stork.

Key species

White-winged Duck, Storm’s Stork, Large, Gould’s and Sunda Frogmouths, Crested Fireback, Great Argus, Grey-headed Fish-eagle, Checker-throated Yellownape.

Other wildlife

Siamang, Agile Gibbon, Banded and Silvered Leaf Monkeys, Elephant. Tiger and Tapir are present but very rarely seen.

Getting there

By car Way Kambas is 7-8 hrs by car and ferry from Jakarta. The turning east for way Kambas off the Trans-Sumatran highway is signposted at Panjang, 4 km south of Bandar Lampung and 85 km north of Bakauheni harbour. Follow the road to Way Jepara and on to Rajabasalama (92 km). in Rajabasalama turn right at the stone elephant; the park entrance is reached after 7 km and Way Kanan after a further 13 km. or take the Kota Bumi road north out of Bandar Lampung and follow the elephant signs.

By bus direct buses, signed to Way Jepara, leave from Rajabasa bus station in Bandar Lampung; the last bus departs at 3 pm, but you should depart by lunchtime as the ojek drivers will not enter the park after dusk. The journey takes 3 hrs and costs $1.50. get off at the stone elephant at Rajabasalama and hire an ojek for the 20-km journey to Way Kanan, $4.50

From Bandar Lampung airport, which is the northern Rajabasalama road, simply step out and flag down a Way Jepara bus. Alternatively you can take a taxi direct to Way Kanan ($25.00)

Accommodatin/dining

There is a 6-room guest house at Way Kanan. Quite basic, but clean sheets, $12.50D. you need to bring your own food but you can use the rangers’ kitchen.

General information

The dry season, May-Nov, is the best time to visit the wildlife reserve. To obtain a permit, pay $2 at the park entrance, or get it in advance from PHPA in Bandar Lampung. A rangers’ cooperative organizes the Way Kanan facilities. See map and main article for details of trails. Canoes can be hired for $12.50/day, full days only, and speedboat for $80/day.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Muaro Sako (Sumatra)

Muaro Sako

If you have time to spare after visiting Mt Kerinci, a day at Muaro Sako could be very rewarding. The bird-watching is easy-you can see a wide range of birds, including half a dozen endemics, just by walking or driving along the scenic main road through the forest.

Key species

Argus Pheasant, Helmeted Hornbill, Spot-necked and Cream-vented Bulbuls, Blue-masked Leafbird, Sumatra Drongo, Sumatra Treepie and Lesser Forktail.

Getting there

Muaro sako is village on the road between Sungai Penuh and Tapan. Buses leave Sungai Penuh for Tapan at 9.00 am and 5.00 pm. The 3-hr journey costs IDR 6,000.

Accommodation/dining

Facilities in Muaro Sako are very basic. ask at the restaurant for a room (IDR 15,000/night). The food does not come highly recommended. If you have your own transport, a long day-trip out of Sungai Penuh might be preferable.

General Information

For the best birding, simply walk back along the main road towards Sungai Penuh. The road winds through excellent forest, affording views of a wide range of species. Better still, leave the village early and hitch back up to the two warung about an hour out of Muaro Sako on the Sungai Penuh road. Then walk back down to the village (10-12 hrs).

Birdwatching in Lake Belibis (Sumatra)

Lake Belibis

On the western flank of Mt Kerinci, “duck lake” sounds promising. The 3-ha lake, with its beautiful views of Kerinci, is charming, but the forest along the 2-km, leech-infested trail from forest along the 2-km, leech-ifested trail from the edge of the plantation was badly damaged by illegal logging in the 1980s and the birding is relatively poor. You will need a guide to find the start of the trail, which is a 1 hr 50-min (2-hr) walk from Kerisik Tua.

Ladeh Payang

Not yet on the birding map, this 100-ha swamp to the west of Mt Kerinci is said to be one of the best areas in the park to see tigers. The trail starts at Kebun Baru, a 18-km road and drivable track from Kerisik Tua. It is said to be a 1.5-hr walk through cultivation to the edge of the forest and then 5.5 hrs through the forest to the swamp, where you can camp by a 3-storey watchtower. Lake Sakti is a further 2 hrs from the edge of the swamp.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Letter "W" Waterfall (Sumatra)

Letter “W” Waterfall

Continuing on the Padang road from Pelompek, after 4 km you come to a small group of scruffy cafes, which mark the start, on the left, of the 200-m track to this magnificent waterfall surrounded by a small pocket of forest. This is the most reliable site for Blue-masked Leafbird and Waterfall Swift (at dusk).

Birdwatching in Mt Tujuh Trail (Sumatra)

Mt Tujuh Trail

This scenic a stiff, 2-hr climb up a ridge to the scenic, 100-ha Lake Tujuh. There are plenty of birds to be seen and the shelter by the lake is a wonderful place to camp. Ten km from Kerisik Tua, in the direction of Padang, turn right in the village of Pelompek. After 2 km pass through the small village of Ulu Jarnih; 300 m further on is a PHPA post and the start of the trail. The first km climbs gently through cinnamon plantatins to a PHPA guest-house ($7 per night, no facilities), after which the trail becomes steep and very muddy.

Birdwatching in Mt Kerinci Summit Trail (Sumatra)

Mt Kerinci Summit Trail

This is the trail where all the key species are seen. The start of the muddy and poorly maintained trail is a 5-km (50 min) walk up through tea and cinnamon plantations from Keresik Tua, but Pak Subandi will run you up on his motorbike for a small charge. From here it is a 9.5-hr climb to the summit of Mt Kerinci. There is a base camp pondok 40 minutes up the trail beyond the entrance archway, then shelters at approximately 2-hr intervals. People normally camp below the summit and make the final ascent for dawn. For birding there is no need to exert yourself as all the best birds are at lower altitudes and trail between the entrance and the next 500 m are the best sections for birds, including Schneider’s Pitta. After this it gets steep.

Birdwatching in Kerisik Tua Area

Kerisik Tua Area

By bus the village of Kerisik Tua is at the northern end of the kerinci valley, 49 km before Sungai penuh on the inland road from padang. Anak Gunung, Gunung Kerinci and Safa Marwa bus companies operate night services from Padang to sungai Penuh, via Kerisik Tua, leaving the bus station on Jl Pemuda between 5.00 and 7.00 pm, and arriving at kerisik Tua at 2.00 or 3.00 am. It is advisable to book tickets ($3.5) in the morning from the company offices in the bus station. Safa Marwa also operates a tourist minibus which departs at 10 am, but you have to book a ticket ($8) at least two days in advance. It is not possible to buy return tickets in Kerisik Tua, so you must either travel to Sungai Penuh or arrange a return pick-up with the driver. Better still, return via Muaro Sako. Your hotel in Padang can easily arrange a taxi for the 5-6 hr journey to kerisik Tua; excpect to pay $95.

Traveling overland from north or south Sumatra, take a bus along the Trans-Sumatran Highway as far as Bangko, 1,119 km south of Medan or 829 km north of Bandar Lampung. At Bangko leave the Trans-Sumatran and take a bus westwards to Sungai Penuh, a tortous, nerve-shattering journey of c. 5 hrs, IDR 20,000 ($ 2.00). From Sungai Penuh it is a further 1.5 hrs to Keresik Tua, departures 9.00 am, 11.00 am and 5.00 pm by local bus: $1.50.

Accommodation/dining

Birders stay at homestay keluarga subandi in Kerisik Tua, located towards the south of the village, 50 m from the mosque and opposite the track through the te plantation to Mt Kerinci. Pak Subandi keeps a bird log and speaks some English. $3.00 a night per person, $1.50 per meal. There are two warung in the village. Pak Subandi will not be too put out if you arrive on a 2 am bus, but it would be polite to send him a telegram beforehand via the Eco-Rural address. There are no phones in Kerisik Tua.

General information

Permits to enter the park can be obtained at the PHPA post halfway between Kerisik Tua and the start of the Kerinci trail, or at Mt Tujuh. The main National Park office is SBKSDA office Jambi, Jl Arief Rahman Hakim No. 10, Jambi. Management: Kompleks Prkantoran Pemuda Kerinci, Jl Arga Selebar Daun, Sungai Penuh, Kerinci Seblat, Jambi.

A village cooperative called Eco-Rural (Eco-cultural Travel Cooperative, Jl Raya Sungai Penuh-Muara Labuh, Desa Kerisik Tua RT.V, Dusun III No. 19, Kayu Aro, Kerinci) organizes an excellent range of basic visitor services in the area. The cooperative has five homestays with a total of 20 rooms, provides guides ($10 per day), rents tents and sleeping bags ($2 per day), and will arrange transport around the area and back to Padang. All these services are arranged through your homestay owner. May-August is the best time to visit.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Kerinci-Seblat National Park

Kerinci-Seblat National Park

The massive and spectacular Kerinci-Seblat National Park in west Sumatra covers the large fertile Kerinci valley, and is one of Asia’s premier birding sites. The most popular base is the village of Kerisik Tua at the foot of Mt Kerinci, at 3,800 m the highest peak west of Papua. The trail up the mountain takes you through a succession of habitats culminating in sub-alpine heath and bogs towards the summit, but it is at the lower altitudes that several of Sumatra’s rarest endemics are regularly seen.

Other recommended birding sites in the vicinity are the Letter “W” waterfall and the Mt Tujuh trail, but other possibilities remain to be explored. Muaro Sako, on the road between Sungai Penuh, the main town in the valley, and Tapan, on the west coast, are good areas to see lower-altitude species.

Key species

Bronze-tailed Peacock-pheasant, Salvadori’s Pheasant, Red-billed Partridge, Horsfield’s Woodcock, Waterfall Swift, Weathed Hornbill, Fire-tufted Barbet, Orange-backed Woodpecker, Schneider’s Pitta, Pink-headed Fruit-dove, Blue-tailed Trogon, Blue-masked Leaf-ird, Sunda Laughing-thrush, Rusty-breasted Wren-babbler, Sumatran Cochoa, Sunda Treepie.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Padang (West Sumatra)

Padang

Padang (population almost 500,000) is a clean and pleasant town with interesting Minang traditional-style buildings, good hotels, decent restaurant and competent travel agencies. The huge Kerinci Seblat National Park is 120 km south of the town.

Getting there

By air there are frequent international connections with Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, regularly daily connections with Jakarta and Medan. Padang’s Tabing international airport is 15 min north of the city on the road to Bukittinggi. The 6-km taxi ride into town costs 43-5; arrange it at the airport service counter. A bemo from the main road (200 m away) costs IDR 2,000.

By sea Pelni’s KM Kerinci and Kambuna leaves Jakarta’s Tanjung Priok harbour every other Saturday morning arriving Sunday evening (36 hrs); 1^st-4^th class $100-46; “no class” tickets not recommended. The boat is always crowded.

By bus from Jakarta takes 2-3 days; $13-22; from Bandar Lampung 28 hrs, about $16.

Birdwatching in Gunung Leuser National Park (Sumatra)

Gunung Leuser National Park

The massive Gunung Leuser National Park boasts the best lowland rainforest birding to be found in Indonesia. There are two areas where access inside the forest is relatively good. The park has received major financial support from the EU, and the leuser Development Programme plans to further improve tourist access to the park.

Key species

Many species of pheasant, hornbills, pitas, trogons, woodpeckers and kingfishers.

Other wildlife

Tiger, Clouded Leopard, Sumatra Rhino, Tapir, Asian Elephant, Orang-utan and white-banded Gibbon. With the exception of the primates, all are very shy and only the determined with time to spare, or the very lucky, will be fortunate to see large mammals

Getting there

Gurah lies at the southern main entrance of gunung Leuser National Park immediately opposite the Ketambe Research Station, a distance of 35 km to the west of Kutacane, Southeast Aceh district, or about 250 km from Medan. If traveling by car from Medan, take the right fork in Kabanjahe (80 km from Medan) towards Tigabinanga. After Tigabinanga continue along the main road to Kutacane. On the left 3 km past Kutacane is the central office of Gunung Leuser National Park. 

The cost of hiring a car (e.g a kijang) from Medan to Kutacena is $90. the minibus “karo indah”, “Karsima” or “Degor Jaya” run directly from Medan to Kutacane. There our hourly departures from the Padang Bulan minibus station between 7 am to 6 pm. The journey takes 5-6 hours, costing IDR 25,000.

For Gurah, take a minibus from the Kutacane terminal IDR 6,000, journey time about 1.5 hrs. last minibus for Gurah leaves Kutacane at 5 pm.

For a visit to Serakut and Suraya, the only current option is to go by rubber raft along the Alas River.

Birdwatching in Medan, Sumatra

Medan

Medan is the western gateway into Indonesia and the ideal starting point for a birding trek across the archipelago. The first stop on a birding itinerary is Brastagi, 66 km southwest of Medan.

Getting there

By air there are regular international flights to medan’s Polonia airport from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Amsterdam, as wel as regular connections from Jakarta and other domestic airports. The airport is still in the middle of the city, and you can actually walk out of the airport entrance and get straight on local transport. Airport taxis cost about $6.50.

By sea Hydrofoil services from Penang, Malyasia, to the main harbor at Belawan are available through most travel agencies. Pelni’s Bukit Guntang operates on alternate weeks between Jakarta and Belawan.

By road ALS is the best bus service to and from Java or southerly points of Sumatra, however the Trans-Sumatran Highway still leaves much to be desired and delays due to repairs etc are common.

Birdwatching in Oel Bubuk Forest (Timor Island)

Oel Bubuk Forest

A tiny (less than 5 ha) remnant of lower montane (1,100 m above sea level) evergreen forest on the way from Soe to Kapan and Mt Mutis.

Key species

Very similar to Buat, but easier to access. Chestnut-backed Thrush once recorded here (but Orange-banded more usual). Mountain White-eye and Blood-breasted Flowerpecker possible.

Getting there

Take the Soe-Kapan road. Stop at km post 14 from Soe, where the road passes through forest (for about 300 m). most of the forest is on a steep hill on the right-hand (east) side of the road. A walking trail follows the southern edge, starting at a wooden-pole gate by the roadside. There are regular bemos from Soe, fare IDR 2,000.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Oelnasi (Timor Island)

Oelnasi

A virtually unexplored, easily-accessible, large area of tall, semi-deciduous forest (450-550 m altitude), only 15 minutes west of Soe.

Key species

Same as Camplong (although 200 m higher in elevation), but more birds to be seen, apparently. Good for pigeons/doves and raptors at times. Spot-breasted Dark-eye commoner.

Getting there

Take the main Kupang-Soe road to km post 95 (about 15 km from Soe) and look for a wooden-pole gate on the northern side of the road (on the left coming from Kupang) with caretaker’s hut, opposite a stone wall. Obtain permission from the caretaker. Starting at the gate, a trail winds right through the middle of tall forest for at least 2 km, passing through several small grassy clearings, good for seeing aerial species and flying pigeons.

Birdwatching in Gunung Mutis (Timor Island)

Gunung Mutis

A 10,000-ha nature reserve covering the beautiful eucalyptus forest around the base of Mt Mutis. The forest on the lower slopes is heavily grazed; the higher slopes (above 1,600 m) are the best for birding. Officially a permit is required to visit, obtainable from the SBKSDA in Kupang.

Key species

Timor Imperial Pigeon, Chestnut-backed, sunda and Island Thrushes, Iris Lorikeet, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Pygmy Wren-babler, Snowy-browed Flycatcher.

Getting there

Take the road from Soe to Kapan (20 km; 30 mins). Take the left-hand branch in Kapan and drive for a further hr (approx 35 km to Fatumenasi). A road is currently being constructed through the reserve to Nenas, 8 km distant. The good forest and birding start above Nenas. There are regular minibuses to Kapan and Fatumenasi from Soe.

Accommodation

It is possible to stay with villagers.

Birdwatching in Soe (Timor Island)

Soe

This small pleasant town is the jumping-off point for trips to Mutis, Oel Bubek and other upland birding sites. There are numerous buses running between Kupang and Soe. Note that the buses to Soe go from the Terminal Bis Oebobo. This is situated near Walikota on Jl El Tari (the road that goes to the airport). The fare is IDR 12,500.

Buat

A scenic area of rolling, grass-covered hills and evergreen forest remnants close to Soe at about 1,000 m above sea level.

Key species

Similar to Camplong, but Spot-breasted Darkeyes, Black-banded Flycatcher and Orange-banded Thrush much more abundant. The only recent (but unconfirmed) locality for Water Ground-dove and an undescribed owl. Yellow-eared Honeyeater and metallic Pigeon abundant at times. Yellow-crested Cockatoo recorded.

Getting there

Everybody in Soe knows Buat, about 5 km to the northwest, where there is a swimming pool. It is easy to charter transport to Buat from any hotel is Soe for around IDR 70,000 (for drop only).

The road passes through white gum-tree savannah and then enters a dense mahogany plantation. At the fork on the far (northern) edge of the plantation, turn right (the left fork goes to the swimming pool) and continue on an unsealed road past new forestry offices for about 1 km until you reach rolling, grass-covered hills and tiny forest remnants. Stop here and walk to the west, where a cliff appears rather suddenly (so take care) with a magnificent view of the forested valley. You can at the southern end of the cliff.

Birdwatching in Camplong (Timor Island)

Camplong

Camplong has a small (400 ha) recreation forest on the western end of the hills that dominate most of West Timor. The forest is semi-deciduous and quite disturbed, but still full of birds.

Key species

Same as Bipolo, but much better for White-bellied Bush-chat, especially at higher elevations, Flycatcher, and also Buff-banded Bushbird. Tricoloured Parrot-finch on the wetter southern forest fringe, near the Rusa Deer compound. In the wet season watch for Palaeartic raptors.

Getting there

Follow the main Kupang-Soe road. The forest starts just beyond the pool at km post 47 and continues up the meandering road to km post 50. go as early in the morning as possible before traffic and horn tooting become too bad. There are several trails providing access into the forest. The best strategy is to take a bus to the top of the escarpment (km post 50) where the teak plantation starts, and then walk slowly back down. All buses to Soe and beyond pass through Samplong; there is no shortage of them. Cost about IDR 3,000.

Birdwatching in Bipolo (Nusa Tenggara)

Bipolo

A small 50-ha remnant of lowland evergreen or swamp forest on the northeast end of Kupang Bay. Numerous wood-cutter’s trails and tracks dissect the forest providing easy access. In the dry season walk south along the sandy river bed, and you will eventually reach a vast area of paddies, mangroves and mudflats.

Key species

All lowland forest species, but especially good for pigeons and parrots. Only known locality (since 1930s) for Timor Green Pigeon; also good for Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon, and Timor Black Pigeon. Only recent Timor locality for Great-billed Parrot; also good for Olive-headed and Rainbow Lorikeets and Olive-shouldered Parrot. Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher breeds; Elegant Pitta abundant during wet season. Timor Blue Flycatcher and Orange-banded Thrush common.

Getting there

Turn left off main Kupang-Soe road at Oelmasi, just past km post 38 (about 1 hr from Kupang). This asphalt road, which is in poor condition, eventually arrives at Pariti. About 14 km from the Oelmasi turn-off is the village of Bipolo. Follow the road through Bipolo to a bridge over the river bed. After the bridge the road passes through forest for about 1.5 km until it reaches the next hamlet, Taupkole. To reach the paddies and mangroves to the south, follow the edge of forest (along the creek bed on the eastern forest edge, or from Taupkole along the edge of the tek plantation).

By public transport buses to Parita leave from Walikota bus station in Kupang. The last bus back is between 6.30 and 7 pm. The fare to Oelmasi is IDR 7,500. a taxi charter from Kupang will cost $25, extra if he has to wait.

Accommodation

Check with the sekretaris Desa Bipolo, who should be able to arrange for you to stay with a family. Take food with you as the area is poor.

source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Baumata (Timor Island)

Baumata

A mixture of old forest trees, teak plantations and scrub behind the public swimming pool of Baumata, 9 km from Oesapa, which is where the main road to El Tari airport leaves the main Soe road (8,5 km from Kupang). Great spot to start birding, only half hour from Kupang with no shortage of transport.

Key species

Exceptionally good for Red-rumped Myzomela, Streak-breasted Meliphagar and two friarbird species. Scrub behind teak plantation also supports White-bellied Bush-chat and Buff-banded Bushbird. Black-banded Flycatcher and Orange-banded Thrush also recorded. Elegant Pitta nests there in wet Season.

Getting there

Catch any bemo from Kupang going to Penfui, and ask for Baumata. From the airport turn off (3.5 km from Oesapa) it is only another 5.5 km uphill.

Birdwatching in Timor (Timor Island)

Timor

This 33,600 sq km island is the largest on Nusa Tenggara. Half its resident birds are of Asian origin, the other half of Australian origin.

Kupang

Kupang is the capital of Nusa Tenggara province. Sunrise is at 5 am and sunset at 5 pm.

Getting there

Downtown kupang is 15 km from El Tari airport. Nusa Cenda University is 3 km from the airport and the government offices are located on a hill outside Kupang city centre. The taxi fare is $4 whatever the destination. Drivers receive commission from hotels, so do not believe your driver when he says your planned hotel is full. The harbour for ferries to and from Roti (daily), Ende and Waingapu is at Bolok, 14 km to the south of Kupang. Bemoos meet the ferries; the fare to downtown Kupang is IDR 2,000.

Birdwatching in Poronumbu (Nusa Tenggara)

Poronumbu

This 900-ha forest fragment located close to Waikabubak supports most of sumba’s forest species including all the endemics. The forest covers a low ridge and the lower slopes are heavily disturbed, with maize fields eating into the forest edge.

Getting there

Take the road to Waibanga, northeast of Waikabubak. Just after Dokaka church, 10 km from Waikabubak, take the track on the left to Dokaka village (1 km). continue along the track for a further 3 km to the forest edge. Trails enter the forest and climb the ridge. There are four bemos a day from Waikabubak terminal to Waibanga (IDR 2000 to the Dokaka turning).

Birdwatching in Waikabubak (Nusa Tenggara)

Waikabubak

Waikabubak, the capital town of West Sumba, is for most tourists the base for day trips to see traditional villages and megalithic tombs. The town has a beautiful traditional village on a small hill in its centre.

Getting there

The airport of west Sumba is at Tambulaka, a 1-hr drive to the northwest of the town.

Birdwatching in Manupeu (Nusa Tenggara)

Manupeu

The beautiful, steep-sided Manupeu valley is dominated by the spectacular Matayangu waterfall and supports the highest known densities of Sumba Hornbill. It is an easy day trip by car from Waikabubak. The track to the valley passes through a mosaic of forest and grassland clearings. There is no accommodation in the area. The valley is known locally as a place of evil spirits, and several visitors who have camped in the valley have reported disturbing dreams.

Getting there

No public transport. A 1-day charter from Waikabubak will cost about $45. at Wailawa, 16 km from Waikabubak, turn south along an asphalt side road. The asphalt gives out after 10 km, 500 m before the forest edge. A 4WD can continue along a track for a further 3-4 km to the top of the valley, and a jeep track continues a further 5 km to the edge of the Manuperu valley. From there it is a 3-km walk down a steep trail into the valley bottom.

Birdwatching in Luku Melolo (Nusa Tenggara)

Luku Melolo

A spectacular valley, with steep limestone escarpments protecting 7,800 ha of forest. On the eastern side of the valley a mosaic of forest and open grasslands that survives along the top of the escarpment is a great place to see many of sumba’s endemic birds.

Key species

Peregrine Falcon, Short-toed Eagle, Sumba Hornbill, Citron-crested race of Yellow-crested Cockatoo, Sumba Green Pigeon, Sumba Cicadabird, Sumba Flycatcher, Sumba Brown Flycatcher, Red-headed Myzomela.

Getting there

Melolo village is 62 km (2 hrs) by road east of Waingapu. Buses leave the terminal about every hour (fare IDR 15.000). the turning up to Luku Melolo forest is the first on the right after the bridge in Melolo. Truck-buses are rare, and without your own transport you will have to rely on hitching on one of the infrequent vehicles for the 21 km, uphill drive to the forest.

General information

Bird along the road from km 21 to km 25, with frequent excursions into the forest fragments and to the edge of the escarpment to look over the valley. At the small village of Paberamanera (km 25) a trail leads down to the river.