Birdwatching in Terimbang (Nusa Tenggara)

Terimbang

A beautiful, unspoilt cove on the south coast, with a 1 km band of beach forest between the beach and fields around the village of Terimbang. Forested escarpments rise inland from the villages. The area has yet to be birded properly, but looks to have great potential and may support all Sumba’s endemics. As yet there is no accommodatins; visitors camp on the beach. Fisherman will sell you fish to barbecue. Bring whatever else you need.

Key species

Beach Thick-knees on the beach, Orange-footed Scrub-fowl and Rainbow Lorikeets, and the forest through which the road passes on the way is good for Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Citron-crested Cockatoo and Metalic Pigeon.

Getting there

Traveling west from Waingapu on the Waikabubak road, turn left at Praipaha (47 km from Waingapu) on the road to Wahang and Tabundung. After a further 38 km, a turning on the right leads 8 km down to Terimbang. (the turning is in Kalal forest, a good area for Citron-crested Cockatoo). Buses leave the terminal in Waingapu each morning for Wahang, but you will need to walk the 8 km from the turning or wait for a lift on one of the very few vehicles going to Terimbang.

Terimbang and Wangameti are connected by a south coast road. From Wangameti return to Kanangar, then continue down to Manukangga on the south coast, turn west via Lalindi, Tabungdung and Wahang. This journey will take a full day by car or motorbike.

source: Birding Bali. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Mt Wangameti (Nusa Tenggara)

Mt Wangameti

Sumba’s highest mountain supports the largest area of forest (40,000 ha) remaining on Sumba. It catches more rainfall than other areas of Sumba and is covered in evergreen forest, favoured habitat of the Red-naped Fruit-dove. Visitors can stay with the head of Wangameti village and hire a guide to explore the forest or climb the mountain.

Key species

All Sumba’s endemic species (except Sumba Buttonquail) and Red-naped Fruit-dove common. Eclectus and Great-billed Parrots, Sumba Cicadabird, Chestnut-backed Thrush, Tawny Grassbird and Russet-backed Rhinomyias.

Getting there

Wangumeti village is about 65 km (3 hrs) south of Waingapu. From Waingapu drive west past the airport. 10 km from Waingapu take a turning on the right to Tana Rara, a further 49 km. continuing along the road from Tana Rara to Kanangar, after 7 km you reach a rough track to Wangameti on the right. Larondja village, which abuts the forest, is 24 km along this track.

A car charter to Wangameti will cost $45. by public transport ask around for the Ende Manis truck at the terminal in Waingapu in the evening. This truck does a daily run up to the Wangameti area. If you are going by motorbike, be aware that patrol is often not available in Tana Rara or Kanagar, but you can arrange for Ende Manis to drop a jerry can of benzene at Wangameti.

General Information

Visitors can stay with a family in Larondja; they ask for IDR 60,000 a night per person, including three basic meals. The village has a communal toilet block. The forest, which starts across a small river immediately behind the village, is criss-crossed with trails for collecting loba (the bark of a tree used in dyeing). The trek to the top of Wangameti is relatively gentle climb and takes 3-4 hrs. villagers ask IDR 30,000 a day for guiding. The price for half day is the same because they lose a day’s work.

Birdwatching in Luku Melolo (Nusa Tenggara)

Luku Melolo

A spectacular valley, with steep limestone escarpments protecting 7,800 ha of forest. On the eastern side of the valley a mosaic of forest and open grasslands that survives along the top of the escarpment is a great place to see many of sumba’s endemic birds.

Key species

Peregrine Falcon, Short-toed Eagle, Sumba Hornbill, Citron-crested race of Yellow-crested Cockatoo, Sumba Green Pigeon, Sumba Cicadabird, Sumba Flycatcher, Sumba Brown Flycatcher, Red-headed Myzomela.

Getting there

Melolo village is 62 km (2 hrs) by road east of Waingapu. Buses leave the terminal about every hour (fare IDR 15.000). the turning up to Luku Melolo forest is the first on the right after the bridge in Melolo. Truck-buses are rare, and without your own transport you will have to rely on hitching on one of the infrequent vehicles for the 21 km, uphill drive to the forest.

General information

Bird along the road from km 21 to km 25, with frequent excursions into the forest fragments and to the edge of the escarpment to look over the valley. At the small village of Paberamanera (km 25) a trail leads down to the river.

Birdwatching in Yumbu Mangroves

Yumbu Mangroves

A beautiful band of mangroves, fronted by coral flats, 2 km down a track off the main Waingapu-Melolo Road. A lovely place to look for terns, Grey-tailed Tattler, and there’s a possibility of Great-billed Heron.

Getting there

From Waingapu take the road easr to Melolo. If traveling by bus ask for Jambatan Yumba and get off 3-4 km after passing through Watumbaka, just after a bridge (close to km post 17)

General information

Follow a track on the left for 1.2 km to the back of the mangroves. The dry grasslands on either side of the track are where Sumba Button-quail has been seen. The track leads to a house, where there is a stream running through the mangroves. Wade along the stream to get to the coral flats.

Birdwatching in Pripahamandas

Pripahamandas (Kilometer Dua Belas)

The steep-sided forest valley, the water catchment for Waingapu, offers a pleasant introduction to forest birding. Citron-crested race of Yellow-crested Cockatoo still occurs, Great-billed Parrot, Rainbow Lorikeet and Green Imperial Pigeon are all common.

Getting there

From Waingapu take any bus in the direction of Waikabubak and get off at km 12 (you will have to pay the full Waikabuhak fare); alternatively hitch a ride or charter a vehicle from your hotel.

General Information

From km 12 it is a 50-m walk to the top of the limestone escarpments and a lovely view into the valley. To descend into the valley bottom, there is a rough trail at km 11. it is possible then to walk up the river and return via another trail, which joins the road at km 15; however on this trail you have to climb a short rock face.

Birdwatching in Waingapu Bay

Waingapu Bay

A few minutes walk from Waingapu town, the mud-flats and sandbars of waingapu bay attract good numbers of shorebirds during the migration months of Mar-may and late Jul-Oct. the variety of species is variable; careful scanning of the high water roost on a sandbar at the eastern end is sometimes rewarded with scarcer shorebird species.

Key species

Far Eastern Curlew, Greater Sand-plover, Great Knot, Terek Sandpiper, Rufous-necked stint, Broad-billed Sandpiper has also been recorded.

Getting there

Opposite the police booth to left of the Merlin hotel, take a track down the side of the mosque. Turn left at the asphalt road and walk for 400 m as far as sharp right bend. Continue straight on along a dirt track for 100 m to a second asphalt road. Turn right and continue for 200 m to a sharp right-hand bend. Take a small path on the left across disused shrimp ponds to the beach.

Birdwatching in Sumba

Sumba
The island of Sumba is another birder’s favourite with eight endemics-including a hornbill, fruit-dove and button-quail. However, it is also popular because of its amazing culture and spectacular landscape, so is a good destination for birders and non-birders.

Birdwatching in Egon-Illimudu

Egon-Illimudu
A volcanic peak with venting fumaroles approximately 25 km east of Maumere. The site’s main interest is a rare example of pristine, moist eucalyptus woodland. Almost nothing is known about the birds of this habitat but it looks exciting.

Getting there
Probably best to charter a car, but also possible by public transport if you’re willing to walk. Drive out past the dive clubs on the road east to Larantuka. Take the turning south between Km Posts 23 and 24 (from Maumere). After 5 km the asphalt turns to a dirt track and enters eucalyptus savannah and after another 2-3 km you reach pristine eucalyptus forest. The track continues upwards through forest and clearings for a further 8 km to the village of Bau Krengut, where there are great views of Mt Egon and the south coast.

Birdwatching in Pulau Besar

Around Maumere
Pulau besar
This rugged, 3,000 ha island is by far the largest in Maumere Bay; it is about 25 km offshore (45 min by speedboat from Maumere or the dive clubs). The vegetation of coastal areas is cultivation and secondary growth, with patches of beach forest and mangroves. The interior is covered by semi-deciduous forest easily accessible along numerous trails that enter from coastal settlements.

Key species
Bonelli’s eagle, Flores Green Pigeon and good range of forest and open country birds, Osprey, Brahminy Kite and White-bellied Sea-eagle around the coast.

Getting there
To reach the island, hire a boat from Sea World or Sao Wisata, or from the fishermen along the coast. The dive clubs charge well over $100 (although you may be able to get a dive group to drop you off). The fisherman charge around $75, but be careful of the sea worthiness of their boats.

General information
Even in the dry season (Apr-Oct) the seas can be choppy. You can stay overnight with the village head on the island, but bring your own food. The island is a nature reserve so you will need a permit, which you get from PHPA in Maumere,, cost IDR 25,000.

Birdwatching in Maumere

Maumere, the principal town of East Flores, is best known for the spectacular diving and snorkeling to be found around the islands in Maumere Bay. The reefs were damaged by the 1993 earthquake and tidal wave but are now recovering well. For the birder there are two recommended day trips: to Pulau Besar, out in the bay, and Egon-Illimudu, a right on the Trans-Flores highway so there are frequent bus service from east and west. There are daily air connections with Ujung Pandang, Kupang, Bima and Bali, and connections to Surabaya and Jakarta. Pelni’s Binaiya stops in Maumere four times a month.

Birdwatching in Mausambi

Mausambi
A pristine area of monsoon forest extending from the hills down to the sea where there is one of the last remaining bands of beach forest on Flores. Not yet really explored by birders, but flores Crow has been seen here and there are plenty of lorikeets and pigeons.

Getting there
Mausambi is located 7 km west of Marole on the coast due north of Kelimutu. The best way to visit this site is to charter a car and drop in here on the way from Maumere-Keli Mutu. By public transport bus-trucks leave from Ende, Detusoko (12 km before Keli Mutu) or Maumere 6-7 am daily; 3 hrs, IDR 18,000 from Maumere. The buses return to their hometowns in the afternoon.

Birdwatching in Ende

Ende
Ende is the largest town on Flores, situated on the south coast. After Maumere, it is the major transportation hub, and there is a port on either side of the small peninsula on which it is situated. The airport is near the town, and it is a 50 m walk from the terminal to the main road, from where you can get a bus or bemo into town.

Transport
By bus Buses to Bajawa, Moni and Maumere are frequent, reliable, cheap and crowded. Going west (Labuhanbajo, Ruteng) the buses leave from Terminal Ndao, 2 km out of town on the road to Bajawa. For eastern destinations (maumere) buses leave from Wolowono, 5 km from downtown. Regular bemos run between the town and terminals.

By sea the ferry leaves from Kupang every Saturday afternoon (16 hrs, overnight, $6-8). Departures and the thicket office are at Pelabuhan Ipi. Tickets can be purchased one day ahead of departure.

Pelni’s Binaiya stops in at Ende twice a month on its route between Waingapu (Sumba) and Kupang, and twice monthly between Kupang to Waingapu. The Pelni office is near the old port, Pelabuhan Ende, but the ships leave from the new port, Pelabuhan Ipi.

Moni and Keli Mutu
Most people go to Keli Mutu just to see the coloured lakes, but the walk back down from the lakes towards Moni village offers some good mountain birding including the “Flores Nightingale”.

Key species
Grey Goshawk, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Changeable Hawk-eagle, Green Junglefowl, Red-backed Buttonquail, Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon, Brown-capped Woodpecker, Snowy-browed and little Pied Flycatchers, Black-naped Monarch, Common Golden Whistler, Helmeted Friarbird, Mountain White-eye. Check the vaccinium scrub at the top for Brown quail, Blood-breasted Flowerpecker and Scaly-crowned Honeyeater.

Getting there
By bus Moni is about 7 hrs from Bajawa via Ende (2 hrs, 53 km from Ende) and 3,5 hrs (83 km) from Maumere. In Moni take a vehicle to the summit, eg the daily, pre-dawn truck laid on for tourists, $1.5; for 5-6 people, charter a jeep from Kelimutu Restaurant, $14 round trip; then walk back down (3 hrs).

General information
There is easy access to habitats in the 700-1,600 m altitude range: casuarinas and mountain forest near the summit, other habitats lower down. However, take great care around the lake and do not go alone: the ground is very unstable off the path. A tourist disappeared in 1995.

Bajawa and Ruing : easy to birdwatching

Bajawa
A lovely hill town set in splendid scenery and popular tourist stopover on the Trans-Flores Highway. The birding is better at other sites, but the fascinating traditional villages of Bene and Luba, 12 km south of Bajawa, are well worth the diversion. The road down to these villages has good, open country birding.

Ruing
A small coastal town and delightful hang-out, due north of Bajawa. Best known for the excellent snorkeling on reefs around a group of islands just offshore in the bay and an immense fruit-bat colony in the mangroves surrounding one of the islands. For birders the main attraction is Great-billed Heron, which is easy to find along the shore. The dry monsoon forest on the hills immediately behind the town, as yet unexplored, is definitely worth checking out.

Getting there
There are 3-4 buses a day from Bajawa to Riung. The journey takes about 3 hrs and cost IDR 12,000.

General information
The villagers have got themselves organized into a cooperative, himpunan pramuwisata Indonesia, which provides guides and manages trips out to the reefs. Expect to pay $7-10 for guide and $25 for boat charter.
One or two small trading boats leave from Riung each week for Ujung Pandang via Tanahjampea (which has an endemic flycatcher). An adeventurous (and cheap) way to link Nusa Tenggara and Sulawesi itineraries.

Kisol: Birdwatching in Lowland Forest

An easy base for lowland forest birding. Kisol is a small village, 68 km from Ruteng, 9 km east of Mborong, on the road to Bajawa near the south coast. At Nangarawa, on the coast south of Kisol, there are patches of lowland forest and scrub; there is also a small estuary with mangroves, 10 km along a bad road passable to 4WD vehicles. Mt Poco Ndeki (Pacandeki) is a forested mountain south of Kisol, 45 min on foot.

Key species

Most lowland species including Bonelli’s Eagle, Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Green Junglefowl, Green Imperial Pigeon, Flores Green Pigeon, Great-billed Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot, Moluccan and Wallce’s Scopsowls, White-rumped Kingfisher, Elegant Pitta, Chestnut-capped Thrush, Asian Paradise-flycatcher, Black-naped and Spectacled Monarchs, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Yellow-spectacled White-eye, Thick-billed Darkeye, Flores crow. In open country or on the south coast: Wooly-necked Stork, Changeable Hwak-eagle, Malaysian Plover, Beach Thick-knee, Lesser Whistling-duck.

Getting there

Take any Bajawa bus and get off at Kisol ($2). Alternatively charter a car for the 2-hr drive ($30).

Pong Toda : A slice experience bird-watch in open grass and shrub lands

A pleasant 1,,5-day walk into a beautiful ravine forested with old casuarinas trees on the slopes of Mt Golo Dukol. The walk passes across open grass and shrub lands where you should see open-country birds such as Brown Quail, Golden-headed Cisticola, Red Avadavat and Five-coloured and Pale-headed Munias.

Getting there

Charter a car or a bemo to take you the 2 km from Ruteng to Leda, where the asphalt road turns to a dirt track. Walk west along this to the susteran (nunnery). Looking west you will see the ravine and the footpath following the contour of the hill. Continue up the road for 1.5 km, cross a stream bed and walk across the grassy area until you reach a small footpath leading up to the left (south). This brings you along a gentle contour into the west side of the ravine. After about 1 km the path forks. Take the left-hand fork (which is actually a water system trail and pipeline), which leads into the casuarinas forest. Here you should find, among other species, Dark-backed imperial Pigeon, Great-billed Parrot, White-rumped Kingfisher, Little Minivet, Scaly-crowned Honeyeater and mixed bird flocks.

Lake Rana Mese: Birdwatching in Ex-crater

Rana Mese, a small crater lake at 1,200 m located 22 km west of Ruteng on the Trans-Flores highway, supports waterbirds such as Sunda Teal, Pacific Black Duck and Little Pied Cormorant not found elsewhere in the area. The surrounding forest is good for Ruddy Cuckoo-dove, Sumba Cicadabird,, Russet-Capped Tesia, Russet-backed Rhinomyias and other forest birds.

Getting there

Take any public bus to Mborong from the terminal in Ruteng (IDR 7,500) and get off at the park sign at Km Post 22. the lake is just a short walk down a stepped trail. Alternatively, take a bemo to Mano (IDR 2,000) and walk the 6 km to Rana Mese. Flag down a vehicle to return to Ruteng.

General information

To get into the forest, walk 100 m back along the road from the site sign board towards Ruteng and follow the small, unmarked footpath on the right towards the lake. The trail passes through good forest with a short, steep section leading down to the northern shore, which is very swampy.

Mt Ranaka: Montana Birdwatching

Mt Ranaka

In 1987, this 2,140 m high mountain erupted, causing the telecommunications station to be relocated, but the 9 km access road is still open, providing visitors with the opportunity to walk or drive right up into the elfin forest that covers the higher slopes. This is a good place for pigeons and chestnut-capped Thrush.

Getting there

This is the most accessible montane cloud forest in Flores. The turning is at Robo, at km Post 9 along the road from Ruteng to Bajawa. The easiest way to get there is to charter a bemo from Ruteng to the top of Ranaka, $4 for a drop, $6 if it waits an hour and brings you back. Alternatively catch a public bus or bemo to Robo (IDR 25,000) and make the strenuous, 9 km (2 hr) climb.

Ruteng: Much Place For Birdwatching

Around Ruteng : much place for birdwatching

Key species

All the montane species, in particular Dark backed Imperial Pigeon, Flores Scopsowl (a speciment recently collected near lake Rana Mese), Russet-capped Tesia, Timor Leaf-warbler, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Flyeater, Brown-capped Fantail, Bare-throated Whistler, Mountain White-eye, Yellow-browe Dark-eye, Sacaly-crowned Honeyeater.

Golo Lusang

7 km south of Ruteng on the road to Iteng, the 1,650 m pass between Mt Lika and Mt Watu Ndao is a fabulous place for an early morning symphony of Bare-throated Whistlers and views to the south coast and even across to Sumba.

Getting there

For an early start arrange a charter from your hotel the night before (IDR 25,000); at other times take a bemo from the bus station in the direction of Ponggeok or Iteng (IDR 3,000) and ask to be dropped off at the pass. To return to Ruteng flag down a passing bemos or truck (IDR 3,000).

General Information

The forest on the south of the pass is less disturbed and to explore it simply wander down the road. Several wood-cutters’ trails give access to the forest. An interesting trail enters to the southeast at Ulu Wae Ces, 1 km back down from the pass in the direction of Ruteng. The trail climbs upwards through a tunnel of shrubs and after 1 km enters secondary scrub and climbs steeply for a further 1 km to another pass. There is good forest over this pass and you reach a small meadow after another 1 km.

Puarldo Telkom Station : Found Endemic Bird

Puarldo Telkom Station

At the top of the pass between Labuhanbajo and the Lembang plains, this is the site for Flores Monarch and other endemic birds of the mid-altitude forests. A 300-m road leads off the main higway to the telegraph station, which is surrounded by forest. Simply bird along the road.

Getting there

The turning for the telegraph station is between km posts 33 and 34 if you are coming from Labuhanbajo, or 96 km from the direction of Ruteng. Take any bus running the Labuanbajo-Ruteng route and get off at the turning (but expect to pay the fare to the bus’s destination).

For the return trip, all buses are likely to be packed to the gunnels, so you will probably have to hitch a lift on a passing truck. It is polite to give the driver some uang rokok (cigarette money) for the ride.

Potawangka: Exiciting Place for Birdwatching in Flores

Potawangka

an area of pristine lowland forest, which exciteing potential, easily accessible via the road which leads through to the village of Potawangka. Only recently discovered and no bird lists yet, the area has to be good and the villagers know Wallce’s hanging-parrot.

Getting there

Take any bemo in the direction of ruteng and get off at a road junction on the left between km posts 10 and 11 from labuhanbajo. The side road leads 12 km to Potawangka village. After 1,5 km the road enters scrub and after a further 1 km you are into forest. Then it’s forest all the way as the road climbs gently upwards to Potawangka.