Moluccas Birding: Mountain Birding

Searching for mountain specialities
The higher montane forest above 1,600 m is home to Seram’s third endemic parrot species, the blue eared Lory, and such mountain pigeon, spectacled Honeyeater, Crimson Myzomela (between 700-1400 m) and Grey hooded Darkeye. The trails over the Kabipolo and Binaya ridges both reach sufficient altitude for these, but only the trail to the summit of Mt Binaya clims high enough to enter the alpine forest habitat of Seram’s unique, white-headed race of island Thrush.

Kanikeh is the base for the 4-day return trek to the summit of Mt Binaya (2,850 m), where spectacular views await the intrepid. It is essential that you take local guide, warm clothes and a tent. Wae Hulu, a camp with water at 2,050 m, is reached after a 6-7 hr hike, and it is a further day to the camp just below the summit.

From Kanikeh it is an 8-hr, straight walk to Manusela; Selumena is about half way. After climbing out of the Kanikeh valley the trail drops into a wide, undulating valley and mostly follows the river through a mosaic of fruit gardens, sago palms, rattan and bamboo within secondary forest. The birding is excellent, so allow plenty of time or stay at the village of Selumena. After Selumena there are several rivers to be forded, but it is extremely dangerous to attempt this if they are in flood following a rainstorm, and there is no option but to camp and wait until morning.

The trail from Manusela to the south coast provides another opportunity to catch up with the mountain specialities; the fern zone at 2,000 m is reached after a hard, 3-4 hr, uphill climb. There is no water on these limestone ridges and you need to be fit and tough to make it over the top and down toMosso in a day.
Even though there is a certain satisfaction in trekking across the island, it would a pity to miss out on the great birding to be found on the trail back to Wahai via the Kobipolo ridge.

The first night’s camp, along an at times near vertical trail, is at a cave near the Mahala waterfall, up on the ridge at 1,220 m; the next day takes you down through pristine lowland forests into the swamp forest of the Mual plains. The large, mammal-like droppings of southern Cassowary are everywhere. If you are lucky you may disturb a cassowary on the trail, but the birds can smell and hear you long before you approach. The best way to see one is to climb a tree that is dropping fruit, and wait patiently. The flightless cassowaries have been on Seram for thousands of years but, as it is an oceanic island, they must have been introduced by man from their native New Guinea.

During the 7-hour walk to Solealama, and the next day’s walk to the village of Solea along the River Toloarang, try to find a tree in fruit where you can get good views of the canopy-perhaps at the edge of a river-and spend some time watching Superb and Claret-breasted Fruit-doves, which are some of the most wonderfully coloured and patterned pigeons in the world.

Wherever you finally return to civilization, you will certainly be tired, filthy and dreaming of a mandi and good meal. But without doubt you will savour the memory of a remarkable birding adventure.
Source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Moluccas Birding: Into the interior deep forest

Into the interior
Park ranger will act as your guides for longer treks into the park; supplies can be bought in Wahai. The best birding route is a circular, 7-10 day trek from Wahai to kanikeh and Selumena in the Manusela valley, returning to Wahai via the Kobipoto ridge and the Mual plains. However, many people like to trek across the island, continuing on from Selumena to Manusela and then crossing the Binaya ridge to Mosso on the south coast. A third option is to return from Selumena to Pasahari by a less interesting, 3- day hike down the Isal valley, which forms the eastern border of the park. The village of Kanikeh, at the entrance to the cultivated Manusela valley, is a 4-day walk from Wahai (3 days if you relly move).

Spend the first two days on the trail that leads to the village of Roho; it passes through a logging concession where the forest is disturbed, but this does not detract from the birding. Raucous screeches will alert you to groups of Salmon-crested Cockatoos, either flying overhead or collecting in a roosting tree. Listen also for the strident call of the Lazuli Kingfisher, sitting high on an exposed vantage point. Other notable species on this part of the walk are likely to be Forsten’s Megapode (recently split off from orange-footed Scrubfowl as a separate species), Pale Cicada bird, Moluccan Cuckoo-shrike, Spectacled Monarch, Streak-breasted Fantail and Long-crested Myna.

After Roho, the trail enters uncut forest and steadly climbs a ridge. The forest here is stunted and bird densities are relatively low. However, views of Moluccan King Parrot, Blyth’s Hornbill, White bibbed Fruit-dove, Golden Bulbul and Rufous Fantail will maintain your interest until, after 3-4 hrs, the trail drops down to the Wasa Mata river and an overnight shelter.

If your time is limited you may wish to press on to Kanikeh, a further 4- to 5-hr walk. But this section of the trail passes through a beautiful mosaic of bamboo and mid-montane forest which is worth giving time to, especially as it is the habitat of the fabulous Purple-naped Lory. Which feeds on flowering rattan or the red fruits of a climbing pandan.

The inhabitantsof Kanikeh, a village of 60 houses on a ridge above the Wae Ule river, have supplemented their meager incomes for at least 50 years by catching Purple-naped Lories and trading them on the coast. Using a decoy lorry, villagers attract wild lories to nylon snares wrapped around exposed branches. A good decoy lorry is a treasured family possession. Around Kanikeh look out for Drab Myzomela in the tree tops. Bicoloured Darkeye is common in the area and there is a good chance of Nicobar Pigeon, Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher and Black-fronted White-eye.

Source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Moluccas Birding: Getting Wahai

Wahai
The pleasant coastal village of Wahai is a day’s journey from Ambon. Early each morning direct buses leave Ambon’s Merdeka bus terminal, cross to seram by ferry and continue to saka, a small collection of huts and a jetty nestling by the side of enormous cliffs on Seram’s north coast. Public speed boats meet the buses in the late afternoon and whisk you off on an exhilarating, 2-hr dash along the coast to Wahai. As you pass the spectacular limestone cliffs-the end of a rugged ridge which still defies the road engineers-lookout for flocks of migratory Australian Pelicans loafing on sandbanks.

Just 8 km to the east of Wahai is the boundary of a broad swathe of the National Park that sweeps down to the sea. A day spent birding along the road tha runs through it to Pasahari provides a superb introduction to seram’s birds. Species to look for here include Gurney’s Eagle, Oriental Hobby and Pacific Baza soaring over the forest edge, Lazuli Kingfisher in partially cleared areas, Metallic pigeon, Claret-breasted Fruit-dove and Long crested Myna in the swamp forest and common bush-hen in the grasslands.

< You will soon be over familiar with the ubiquitous, explosive pprow calls of seram friarbird, the island’s most common endemic. It is so accurately mimicked by the black-naped oriole that most people leave seram unsure wheter they have relly seen the oriole. With the help of the National Park Rangers, a number of pleasant “off road” excursions can be arranged in this area: you can walk to the edge of the mangroves or through the swamp forest, or even float down the rivers to the sea on a bamboo raft.

Either on the way out or back (depending on the tides) check out the mangrove-lined mud-flats in air besar bay, just 2 km east of wahai. There are usually a few Australian ibises around and good range of shorebirds-and possibility of Channel-billed Cuckoos-in the migration season. The small patch of forest behind the quay is good for common Paradise-Kingfisher.

Source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Moluccas Birding: Manusela National Park

In search of exquisite parrots
Seram, the “mother island” from which the people of the region believe they all originate, dominates the map of central Moluccas. Stretching 340 km from east to west, this 17,470 sq km island, three times the size of Bali, will end the 20th century as it began it-as a place of mystery and adventure with awesome mountains, endless forests and a forbidding interior.


For parrot enthusiasts, seram is exceptional. Its 11 parrot species include two found only on Ambon and one on Ambon and Seram: two of these three must rate as among Indonesia’s, if not the world’s, most exquisite parrots. They are the subtle pink salmon-crested cockatoo (Cacatua moluccensis) and the intelligent, multicoloured purple-naped lorry (Lorius domicella).

For birders with a penchant for tropical ecology, the 1,890 sq km Manusela National Park, which straddles the centre of the island, is fascinating; capped with the bare volcanic plug of Mt Binaya, which thrust up through magnificent limestone peaks and escarpments, Manusela embraces an exceptional range habitats, from mangroves and nipa palm swamps, through freshwater swamps and lowland forest, up into montane rain forest.

But seram does not give up its treasures readily. Although made a national park in 1982 and the subject of a major operation Raleigh scientific expedition in 1987, Manusela (the name means “bird of freedom”) is still without many basic park facilites. To appreciate the area and find seram’s 21 endemic bird species, you will need time, a willingness to trek through forest-sometimes up to your knees in mud-to put up with rain and leeches and to survive for days on end a diet of rice and noodles.

Trekking routes
a number of trails cross the park from Wahai on the north coast to Mosso or Hatumete on the south. They can be tackled in either direction, but the climb out of Mosso is extremely strenuous: it is known locally as the “path of sorrow”, a reference to a time in the colonial era. When villagers were forced to move to the coast. So it is best to start from Wahai, which, in addition to the 5-day, cross-island trek, offers options for 5-or 6-day circular treks up to the Manusela valley inhabited by the indigenous alifuru people, and back to the north coast via the kobipoto ridge, or down the isal river valley.

Wahai
The pleasant coastal village of Wahai is a day’s journey from Ambon. Early each morning direct buses leave Ambon’s Merdeka bus terminal, cross to seram by ferry and continue to saka, a small collection of huts and a jetty nestling by the side of enormous cliffs on Seram’s north coast. Public speed boats meet the buses in the late afternoon and whisk you off on an exhilarating, 2-hr dash along the coast to Wahai. As you pass the spectacular limestone cliffs-the end of a rugged ridge which still defies the road engineers-lookout for flocks of migratory Australian Pelicans loafing on sandbanks.

Just 8 km to the east of Wahai is the boundary of a broad swathe of the National Park that sweeps down to the sea. A day spent birding along the road tha runs through it to Pasahari provides a superb introduction to seram’s birds. Species to look for here include Gurney’s Eagle, Oriental Hobby and Pacific Baza soaring over the forest edge, Lazuli Kingfisher in partially cleared areas, Metallic pigeon, Claret-breasted Fruit-dove and Long crested Myna in the swamp forest and common bush-hen in the grasslands. You will soon be over familiar with the ubiquitous, explosive pprow calls of seram friarbird, the island’s most common endemic. It is so accurately mimicked by the black-naped oriole that most people leave seram unsure wheter they have relly seen the oriole. With the help of the National Park Rangers, a number of pleasant “off road” excursions can be arranged in this area: you can walk to the edge of the mangroves or through the swamp forest, or even float down the rivers to the sea on a bamboo raft.

Either on the way out or back (depending on the tides) check out the mangrove-lined mud-flats in air besar bay, just 2 km east of wahai. There are usually a few Australian ibises around and good range of shorebirds-and possibility of Channel-billed Cuckoos-in the migration season. The small patch of forest behind the quay is good for common Paradise-Kingfisher.

Source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Shorebird Feed

Shorebird feed
from the above it is clear that the physical composition of the sediment influences the numbers of shorebirds feeding upon it, but within a suitable area of mud it still known precisely what attracts birds to one part of a beach and not to another. there are clues, however. small ocypode crabs, prawns, fish larvae, polychaete worms and small bivalves are among the most important foods for shorebirds and the distribution of these foods between beaches is very uneven. Differences in the fauna in mudflats can really only be determined by direct investigation (Swennen and Marteijn 1985). where suitable prey is present, density is the most important factor, followed by prey size, prey depth and the penetrability of the substrate (Myers 1980).

Tidal state, wind and disturbance all affect the density and availability of prey, and this is why certain beaches are only used by the waders at certain times (Evans 1976; Grant 1984). Casts of mud thrown up by susupension feeders and swimming movements of small crustaceans are visual clues for the birds, showing them where to feed (Pienkowski 1983), but some birds use tactile rather visual clues and have sensitive beak tips which can sense prey underground. Sandpipers, one group of partially tactile feeders, may avoid sandy mud because the sand grains are very similar in size to the polychet and oligochaete worms upon which they feed (0,5-1 mm) (Quemmen 1982).

Shorebirds in Celebes

Shorebirds in Celebes
In addition to four species of resident shorebirds, at least 34 migratory species visit Celebes coasts twice each year. They can be seen between February and april and between September and November, on their way to and from their breeding grounds in northeastern and eastern asia and their wintering grounds possibly in northwestern Australia (white 1975). Between February and april and returns between September and November. These birds would most often be encountered on muddy rather than sandy shores.

Very little is known about the movements of these birds within Indonesia and the basic questions posed thirty years ago have barely begun to be answered. That is: what are the normal migration routes? How many birds are there (commons de ruiter 1954)? Ornithologist from interwader, an international shorebird study programme, during the first part of 1986, and two areas of mudflat were visited: the north of bone bay, and the coast north and south of watampone.

The northern site had extensive mangroves but the mud was rather sandy and, therefore, not especially suitable for waders. One exception was the muddy estuary of the balease river where at least 18 species were seen, four of which constituted about half of the total number of birds seen. The coasts around watampone were found to have less sand than in the north, and the shorebirds were consequently more common though of fewer species (Uttley 1986).

Source: Ecology of sulawesi 2002

Birds Wallacea Line

Birds Wallacea Line

There are 332 species of birds known from Celebes of which 92 (27%) are endemic, and 81 (25%) are migratory (White 1974, 1976, 1977; White and Bruce 1986). Nrecords of species not previously known from Celebes are still being made (Escott and Holmes 1980; Watling 1983) among the resident birds, 17 genera are endemic to Celebes and its surrounding islands including a large number of spectacular endemic birds such as the dark green bee-eater (Meropogon forsteni), the large brightly coloured hornbill (Rhyticeros cassidix), the crowned myna (Basilornis celebensis), and the finch-billed starling (Scissirostrum dubium) which nests in huge numbers in holes bored out of tall dead trees. Celebes best-known bird is the maleo (Macrocephalon maleo) which incubates its egg in pits that the adult birds dig.


BibliographyWhite, C.W.M. 1974. three water birds of wallacea. Bill. Brit. Orn.
1976. Migration of Paleartic waders in Wallacea. Emu
1977. Migration of Paleartic passerine birds in Wallace. Emu
And Bruce, M. 1986. the Birds of Wallacea. Checklist No 7 British Ornithologist Union
Escott, J.J. and Holmes, D.A. 1980. the avifauna of sulawesi. Indonesia: faunistic notes and additions. Bull. Britt. Orn
Wattling, R.J. 1983. Ornithological. Notes from sulawesi. Emu
Whitten, T. Henderson, G.S, Mustafa, M. 2002. Ecology of Sulawesi. Periplush Publishing. Singapore

Getting Good Bird Picture In Birdwatching

Getting Good Bird Picture In Birdwatching
If you are after good bird picture, forget about birding at the some time: many have tried to do both simultaneously and failed. Just pick one area and stay there for several days-or weeks-and get to know the area and birds well. In Indonesia a good rule of thumb is not to approach the birds-let them come to you. Conceal yourself near a food source in the cool and bright morning sun; it could be a fruiting or flowering tree or muddy beach with a retreating tide. Streams and pools are good places at midday, when birds come down to bathe. Remember, birds are creatures of habit and will come back to the same spot and do the same thing day after day. Some Indonesian parks have hides and watchtowers, but generally you have to be prepared to find your own favourite spots.

Think also about why you are taking the photos. Is it purely personal interest, or do you, like photographers, get particular satisfaction fromseeing the results of your work published? Editors require razor-sharp, perfectly exposed images. The growing popularity of photographic field-guides means that there is thriving market for the classic, full frame or centre shot bird but, increasingly, editors of magazines and guide books are looking for more creativity, and photos that capture the essence of the place as well as the bird. Resist the temptation to get the bird as large as shot of a wader against an expanse of mud and clear blue sky? A kingfisher surveying an expanse of forest? When you get a collection of photos together, even if it is only small, it is sure to be valuable: editors and photo agencies are crying out for better coverage of Indonesian natural history. There are still so many birds that have not yet been photographed in the wild-there is still so much to be done in Indonesia

Taken from Birding Indonesia, Periplush Publishing. Singapore